Contamination - the floor needed to be stripped of all contamination before abrading. A deep clean needs to be performed prior to the abrasion. It's too late, now. You will need to do a full sanding.

A deep cleaning is required with todays finishes. Otherwise, you get adhesion issues like what you have here.

The adhesion failure probably started with the 2016 buff and re-coat. This one made it, more obvious.

Can you explain the deep cleaning process? Is it the same as full sanding? Thanks.

These aren't water marks (like one would find with wax finishes). These white events are the appearance of the layers of finish separating from one another. The "white" is actually air. The finish has failed - almost completely. There is nothing that will fix this save sanding it down to raw wood.

As for deep cleaning before a buff and coat, it can involve "floor stripper" (the chemical floor strippers used in hospitals, etc.) or even screening machines used to remove "gunk" from the surface. The gunk I'm referring to = cleaning products, cooking oils, skin oils, soap, detergents, etc.

Another issue is the time between COATS. Bona is like all other polyurethanes...it LOVES having a second coat applied INSIDE of 24 hours. In fact it is beneficial to have coat #1 and #2 applied rapidly one after another. Chemically the fresh coat is very "tacky". It GRABS the second coat incredibly well. It is the same idea as getting freshly chewed bubble gum to stick to freshly chewed bubble gum. The longer you leave the time between coats, the greater the chances of adhesion failures. If more than 24 hours has passed, then another round of buffing is REQUIRED. Yep. Required. That adds more money to the job because it adds more steps.

This is all under the assumption that a second buff and coat on a floor that had one only 3 years before is considered "normal". From what I understand to be standard procedure, a single buff and coat is performed around about middle age of the floor (between year 10 through year 15). The cleaning/screening/buffing is the preparation and then the SINGLE coat of polyurethane is put down. A second buff and coat so soon after the first = unusual.

If you want to tidy up the floor once again, you then move to the FULL SAND AND REFINISH. a Buff and coat is only a short term solution. Once done the buff and coat will help the original finish look "good" for another 5-7 years. That would bring the floors to the 20 - 25 year range.

In other words, a second buff and coat applied without doing a full sand and refinish is not the norm. And a single coat of finish is the norm...not two. And the cure time is too short - especially for 2 coats. And the time between coats (4 days) is FAR too long without extra precautions.

I would ask why the contractor agreed to perform a buff and coat only 3 years after the last one? And was the suggestion of a full sand/refinish ever discussed? Why or why not?

And what was it that required a floor that appears to be less than 10 years old to require all these treatments? My apologies if I have misinterpreted your statements. It sounds like the floors were installed in 2011...Am I correct?

I'm sorry but this is a complete redo. I mean sand and refinish down to raw wood. So many things that could go wrong have certainly gone wrong. Brazilian Cherry (Jatoba) is a dark floor. It is photosensitive. It darkens when exposed to "light". It can bleach out in DIRECT sunlight...but normally it turns dark. And then it stays dark. Dark floors show scuffs and scratches. It is the nature of the beast. A buff and coat (or in this case a second buff and coat inside of 3 years) isn't going to change that.

Not too sure about the comments above. That looks like spotting, not an adhesion issue. I finished my own Maple countertop with Bona finish and it spots if something wet is left on it too long, even after months of curing.

When was the coat applied and when were the pictures taken?

How much time passed before the first time water was used on the floor?

Do the light spots go away after some time or are they permanent?

How long does something wet have to sit on the floor before it leaves a mark?

What is the indoor temperature and humidity?

I recoated a restaurant floor that exhibited similar marks, partially due to a cold floor being hit with warm humid air and partially due to being subjected to moisture from normal operation.

See below:

When was the coat applied and when were the pictures taken?

---- Coats applied in Dec 2018, pictures in late Jan 2019. Almost 8 weeks apart.

How much time passed before the first time water was used on the floor?

---8 weeks again. First two pictures were from the Bona cleaning mop sitting for a few hours. Third photo is from rain coming in from a balcony door.

Do the light spots go away after some time or are they permanent?

---They go away but I can scrape off the coat with my fingernail like I did above.

How long does something wet have to sit on the floor before it leaves a mark?

----A couple of hours.

What is the indoor temperature and humidity?

----Mid 60s. Humidity is average. I'm in Los Angeles.

Thanks.

In other words, a second buff and coat applied without doing a full sand and refinish is not the norm. And a single coat of finish is the norm...not two. And the cure time is too short - especially for 2 coats. And the time between coats (4 days) is FAR too long without extra precautions.

--After the first coat was applied in 2019, the satin finish looked dull and felt rough. I should have stressed two coats but assumed two coats was always applied. The time needed to get the guys back for the second coat was four days. So my thinking of the long drying time for the first coat was a good thing was wrong. Ugh!

I would ask why the contractor agreed to perform a buff and coat only 3 years after the last one? And was the suggestion of a full sand/refinish ever discussed? Why or why not?--

---I switched contractors hoping to get better results than the 2016 coat. Also, the time was perfect as we were without a sofa. So the biggest item to move being not around made me think I should get it done now rather than a few years down the road. Mistake.

SJ McCarthy Thanks for the response!

Why did you not like the buff and coat in 2016? What was the problem with that one? Again, the concept of a buff and coat done only 3 years after the first one is a bit weird. Did you explain to the refinishers that this is a SECOND attempt at a buff and coat?

I'm sorry but this looks like a complete redo. A full sand and refinish is going to be needed. I can already see white lines appearing at the edges of the planks. This is a big red flag for adhesion failure.

I know we would all like to think that professionals will direct us to the proper procedure and tell us not to do something if it will bring about a bad result. The high-end professionals will do that (the guys who most of us cannot afford) because they NEVER want to see their name associated with a failure such as yours. These people are few and far between.

It looks like the company that you brought in simply did as they were told and walked away with the money. Sadly this happens more often then we can imagine. The one thing that might save you is the written contract you had with them. A well-versed professional will ALWAYS put in a caveat for a buff and coat. In the contract, which the homeowner signs before any work is done, will CLEARLY state: "A buff and coat application is not guaranteed to adhere to the old finish. I, the homeowner, am fully aware that adhesion failures are possible and not the result of negligence or incompetence of the flooring professional. I accept full responsibility for the state of the floors before, during and after the buff and coat has been achieved and will not hold the professional responsible should adhesion failure occur."

Go ahead and find your contract to find out if you signed anything with such a caveat. If there is nothing in writing stating such a thing, you MIGHT have the ability to have them come in a start the sand/refinish process at a discount. In other words they might put SOME of the money you've paid towards a full sand and refinish. If they do, this is the sign of a high-end shop. If they don't then you know where they stand on the "professionalism" ladder.

Why did you not like the buff and coat in 2016? What was the problem with that one? Again, the concept of a buff and coat done only 3 years after the first one is a bit weird. Did you explain to the refinishers that this is a SECOND attempt at a buff and coat?

The 2016 buff and recoat seemed to be prone to scuffs more so than what I would like. I questioned their application thinking that was the cause. But it was my lack of knowledge in the process that caused me to do it again. Yes, I did explain this to the new guys. His idea to improve it was to do it on a Saturday than wait until Monday for the furniture. 48 hrs drying rather than the 24 hrs that I did in the past. It's a small townhouse with little room for furniture. Now maybe if the second coat was applied on the that first day, this problem would not have occurred. The new guys realized there was some risk involved but never mentioned it to me as far as an adhesion issue. There is none of the wording that you stated.

We both agree a full refinish is the only option. I was hoping for a full-credit of the buff and recoat would be applied ($1700) but I have yet to see that in writing. I don't think they will leave me hanging but we'll see. Thanks!