I actually figured it out. You predrill holes smaller than your nails, fill with silicone or epoxy glue, then gently tap the clavos in, or screw the screws in. Simple. I;ll post pics later tonight.

. I've used some stuff that looks like very thin plastic strip with self-adhesive . . believe it's called something like "V-seal" made perhaps by 3-M. It's a continuous strip which you cut to length and then fold in half; and stick to the door frame. It forms a V between the door itself, and the frame. While it does not insulate like foams do; it certainly stops drafts quite well if properly applied. The adhesive may not work real well in the cold. I'd also let the stuff come to room temp and straighten out before I attempted to put it on. It collapses to practically nothing when you close the door; unlike foams and such which take up pretty much a certain amount of space no matter what. I'd like to avoid drilling too on that door or frame . . . . I think most of your typical home supply chain stores will carry something like that . . . cheap too. Bob

I had the same problem mounting shades to metal door. I used J B Weld to patch the hole (Just wasn't comfortable making holes in metal door). Then used Command strips - large on top of door to hold the spring loaded roller and smaller on the bottom (upside down) to hook the wood insert strip in the shade onto. The Command strips were offwhite like the door. They can be glued if the hold isn't strong enough. They can be pried off carefully later if you want to change styles of window cover. Wasn't real pretty but it worked. No one noticed since it didn't show unless you looked for it.

It depends on the cabinet line. Some cabinet doors are "reversable" and the boxes are drilled on both sides. These are usually the inexpensive lines that may need to be assembled in the field by the installer. Some are not, and must be ordered correctly from the beginning. Most of your mid and upper end lines will be this way. Those that are reversable will have square doors, and will need cover plates to go over the hinge drilling in the opposite side of the box to make it look cosmetically attractive. That's not to say that if you order a door hinged the wrong way that your installer can't rebore the box and move the hinges to the opposite side if the door is a square one, but it never looks as good as the factory bore for the most part because it can't be done "flat" under a drill press.