My husband did this on a short 1 foot high wall. He started by cutting diamond mesh to fit the wall, then attaching the mesh with concrete screws. This is to give the mortar better adherence. Then use concrete mortar to attach the flagstone. After several days of drying, go back and grout. Ours was only one level high, but you will have to do in several layers. Do bottom layer first. After drying do next layer, and you will probably have to use something to prop against the stone to stop it sliding down. Or you could use several layers of duct tape from the top to hold it in place until it dries. If you do all 3 feet at once there is the danger that the top layers will slide down and push everything out of place.

I made my first 4x8 bed the exact same way (cinder blocks), with a very similar slope. Here's what I learned: 1. Depending on your winters, the blocks may heave by spring, so you may have to fix them. Not a big deal, just keep it in mind. 2. With ANY slope, you will have runoff. The peat repels water if it's on a slope. If you can;t correct the slope, I'd use Mel's suggestion of saucer-shaped depressions around the base of the plant, and watering by hand. Otherwise, within a month you'll be losing your water to the low side,where more of the mix will gravitate to as well. I don't mean to be a downer, but I wish someone would have told me this before I set mine up that way! Unfortunately, most of my yard slopes, so this year I'm building boxes and levelling them with cinderblocks. Hope this helps!

Thanks for the feedback. I was scared of the stucco, but completely undecided. That cinches it. Now, does anyone have any suggestions for brands of paint for the ceiling or concrete blocks? Ceiling paint goes on tomorrow. I'll be at Porter Paint or Ben Moore at 7am tomorrow for that. May flip a coin since there is practically no chance of feedback before then. But I have a couple of days about the walls. Was so excited about Ben Moore masonry paint, but can't find anyone around here who carries it. Most dealers (I called 10) didn't even know they make it. Any suggestions for wall color would be welcome. Right now orange is in the lead. Hey, it can be painted over. Right? I'm really stressing about the brand of masonry paint so please give some feedback.

After 1971 quake in San Fernando area my dad talked to man that was really upset about his very long wall & how much it would cost to repair or replace it. Since it was on level ground & just a foot in on his property from sidewalk my dad drew him pilasters to put up every 8-10 ft. They are cement wider at bottom & have rebar in center & are up against side of wall that was leaning out toward street. Wall was only leaning not broken anywhere.At top the cement is narrowed. Looks like it was meant to be that way. I drove by it yesterday & it is still in great shape. About 200 ft. long. He mixed cement up himself after dad helped him brace it with 2x4's once pilasters were cured all braces removed & looks like it is all original. The cement was just smoothed& is narrower both ways at top so from side it is narrower than at bottom & looking straight on it is narrower as goes up. I think dad had him dig down about a foot to embed the rebar, can't remember is dad made him a form or not. Dad is 95 now & had stroke so wouldn't remember but the man saved a lot of money & since it is on a corner it was all his responsibility. No neighbor to deal with. Good luck. Oh, wood rots so cement would be better. If fence in good shape might be able to sink steel poles in next to it but wouldn't look professional like 1 my dad helped guy do.(At no charge I might add).