I would think that a carpenter should be able to make everything look right with three pieces of 1x6 and a piece of whatever they are using to make the ceiling on your porch. Here's what I would suggest. First, cut a piece of 1x6 the length of your bumpout minus about 6 to 8 inches. Then cut two more pieces of 1x6 the length of those four support braces minus however much "dentil molding" you want showing and minus the thickness of a piece of 1x6. Now, cut four notches along one edge of the long piece of 1x6 so that the four support braces will fit INTO the notches. Put the three boards together like so: Attach this structure to the bottom of the bumpout and tight against the house so that just the ends of the support braces stick out. Small L-brackets attached to the "inside" edges of the boards ahead of time will make it easier to attach the structure to the bottom of the bumpout. (Sorry but my drawing skills on PAINT aren't good enough to show the L-brackets but it should be obvious where they will need to go.) Now, cut a piece of the material that was used on your porch ceiling so that it will fit INSIDE the structure. Attach this to the the bottoms of the supports so that they are hidden except for the parts that stick out thru the notches. Now, the only portions of the supports that you'll be able to see will be the ends and, once everything is painted white, they should look like the dentils you have on the front of the house. Because the entire structure is tucked UNDER the bumpout by 3 to 4 inches on all sides, all of the screw/nail holes will be protected from weather. Thus no flashing should be needed. Just caulk good where the structure butts up against the bottom of the bumpout and around the notches...mostly to keep bugs from crawing inside and using the hollow spaces as places to nest. If you house is sided with Hardie, they should be able to do this with 1x5 Hardie trim boards instead of 1x6 wood although cutting the notches without splitting the fiber-cement will take a sharp saw and somebody with a little bit of real skill in working with Hardie. Good luck.

We bumped the window out like moccasin suggested. Now I have plenty of room for potted plants behind the sink. And it also cuts down on water being splashed onto the window. My husband has huge hands and he likes to shake the water off of them at the sink. I was afraid that if I had the window installed counter height that he'd be forever shaking the water onto the glass. But with the window being bumped out 8" this rarely happens. I do like the look of a sink bumped forward, but if it doesn't offer more space behind the sink then I don't see the big advantage except for looks. I wonder if a bumped out sink will go out of style and look dated any time soon. Certainly nothing that would stop me from doing it if I loved it . . . but if you are concerned about resale then something to consider I suppose.

I have a sink bump out with no flutes or columns and I think it looks fine. I don't see why you can't still have a 33" cabinet and just have the posts attached to the exterior front on the cabinet. Isn't that how they do it if it doesn't taper back? The doors will be smaller but the cabinet interior will still be big enough for you to have the sink you want.

cali59, I agree regarding the comment that bump outs aren't out of style if you like them... I will always go with what I like, not what others consider are on trend or passe. I did use a kitchen with a bumped out sink for a couple months, and found the bump-out to be something I bumped into! I do think your DW should go beside the sink cabinet - for me and most, that's a must. Much easier. Dishes and glasses in drawers is how we have ours arranged (either beside the DW on the other side, or across from it to pivot and put away), and in the new reno layout as well. The exception are our extra glasses located above the DW - and that will change as I have to close the DW to get the glasses in the upper. Too many steps to put away glasses! Regarding deeper counters... yes, they are more costly, but we are going that route, with deeper drawers and deeper upper cabinets throughout except our island (not enough room). More counter space is always a good thing for me. Adding even 2" to drawer depths is a bonus for me as well. To be clear, it might seem to be an obstacle to have your dishes and glasses in a drawer cabinet beside the DW, but I stand in front of the open dishwasher, drawers as needed open, and easily put my dishes/glasses away. Glasses in a drawer are not a problem.