Since no one answered your question directly, you can get muriatic acid in any pool supply store. Make sure to read EVERYTHING about it before you play with it. Do a test run in a place where it is not going to be too visible if it turns out to be damaging on the learning curve. Have plenty of protective gear, lock your pets away, have your kids go to grandma's, protect any vegetation that you don't want to end up dead. Have a plastic bristle brush ready to scrub the bubbles off to see the results before you wash it off. It's a lot to think about, but it can be very rewarding if it is done well. I work in the office for a Construction and Maintenance Company here in Los Angeles and based on the hands of the guys that do only this kind of jobs I'd say that those jobs are not for do-it-yourselfers. But by looking at how they do it and how nice and clean concrete surfaces became, I bought the materials and did my own driveway and it turned out to be like new! Here is a link that might be useful: Look up acid wash on this website.

HE vs non-HE. Top load vs Front Load. Topics that resonates at this forum. Really a lot of factors at play to consider before laying down your hard earned cash on a new washer. Utility costs: -wash hot water most of the time; FLW or HE TLW the way to go -water and sewer cost a fortune; FLW or HE TLW the way to go -wash warm most of the time; not much to be saved with HE TLW -water and sewer cheap; not much to be saved with HE TLW -BTW, 90%+ of a washer's energy use is to heat the water -modern detergents work great in warm water IMHO Your personal time: -many HE TLW washers have really long cycle times; with less mechanical action they must work the laundry longer to get it as clean; cycle 60 min+; some have nearly 90 minute cycles that get top or near top rated by Consumer's Reports -traditional TLW washers have more mechanical action; 30-35 min cycle -how will the top load cycle match up to the dryer? Traditional TLW will give 150G spin and generally wash faster than the dryer can dry; dry time 40-60 min; you get that 150G every time with a repeatable cycle length -HE TLW claim they give 300G spin, but that requires nearly a perfect balanced machine; many have time consuming algorithms that attempt to rebalance; if they can't rebalance you get 150G or potentially much lower spin speed; many horror stories posted here about HE TLW balancing issues; so do you really get that extra cup or two of H2O out of the laundry after spin that you paid dearly for? -do you mind doing the wash all weekend or do you want to get it done fast? Your personal tolerance for detergent residue: - only traditional TLW has a good deep soak -HE TLW have a spray or partial bath rinse; not as effective to get all the soap out Your personal tolerance for fabric wear: -traditional agitator is generally harsher on clothes than a little puck on the bottom of an HE wash basket Since you are ruling out front load washers, you leave some of their advantages off the table for a low energy, low water use machine. Saving the world one wash load at a time: -certain areas are very hard pressed for water; it is an undeniable fact -all areas some day will face energy shortages some day if not already -does saving one gallon of water in the Upper Midwest really help the drought stricken southwest or a farmer in Florida? How will that saved gallon get from say Chicago, a water rich location, get to Phoenix, a water short location? -is the same Eco minded person buying an HE washer driving around in a gas guzzling SUV or living in a 10,000 SQ ft mega mansion? -why do certain people guilt those who buy traditional TLW as energy/water gluttons, yet move or chose to live by choice in water starved area or in a desert running the AC non-stop that the local environment cannot sustain? I know I am being cynical here, but being ecologically sensitive is an all-inclusive way of life, a summation of all the choices that a person makes. But if buying an HE TLW or better yet a FLW is your first step to helping our planet, then great, but be aware of all your decisions that impact the environment.

Recommend these combined with bronze goose-neck connectors for strain-relief. Both available at the site. I've had them at two locations for about seven years, now. I am retail customer/user only. No other interest in the product or vendor. Here is a link that might be useful: My recommended washer hoses

elyash...Larsi is the expert on the Electrolux 60 & 70 series (I own the 70 set) but let me try to answer your questions. Washer 1. Hand Wash you may never need it but it's nice that it's there. The Hand Wash cycle has more "motion" (tumbling) if you will, than the Delicate cycle; where there are more longer pauses between direction changes. 2. Steam Prewash (I haven't used this yet) but makes sense for really filthy clothes best for oily type of stains to relax fibers before washing. 3. Wool (haven't used this either) uses very specific settings (warm wash, cool rinse, gentle tumbling, medium spin, normal soil level), you can't modify these settings. 4. Extended Spin (haven't used it) seems like overkill to me. The 60-70 series maximum spin speeds are 1300-1400 RPM and only at the very end of the spin cycle. The clothes are really almost dry at that point and a few more minutes won't do much more (unless you have some really heavy absorbent material). 5. Custom Options : Every cycle has a water temp, spin speed, soil level (time adjuster) and available options for that cycle. Depending on the cycle you may have the option to...Add Steam, Eco Friendly, Allergen, Extended Fresh, Shrink Guard, Add More Water, Stain Pretreat, Fresh Rinse, Extra Spin, PreWash, Warm Rinse, Delay Start. 6. 3 Favorites vs. 1. Say you wash the same thing using the same settings. Instead of turning the dial to the cycle you want and going through all the settings you want, you can do it once and save it. Then when you go to wash that same load again you just go into Favorites, select your saved cycle and press "Go". The 70 will store 3 of your "Favorites" vs. just 1 on the 60. 7. Most of the wash cycles are hidden under Specialty, you'll mostly use the main cycles on the big dial. Dryer 1. Different cycles have different options. I to use Medium Low (heat) on which ever cycle will allow me to use it. Some cycles will only allow "more dry or less dry or damp dry etc). It really doesn't matter too much what the dryer says the cycle is for (towels, casuals etc) the dryer has sensors to determine how far along the drying process is and adjusts accordingly. 2. I have used steam but not "Fast Steam". It's really just a fine mist sprayed into the drum. It's not true steam at all. No, you will need to iron. 3. The use of a drying rack is recommended for washable woolen items. Check the use/care label for proper fabric care. 4 I don't own anything woolen so I don't know if you would have to take some items to the dry cleaners. 5. Personal preference. 60 series most controls are laid out and have easy access, 70 series options are under the "options" section for each cycle. I hope that helps a little. You can view the manuals online for more info. Electrolux Website