Kilz primer and SW alabaster color trim. Glossier makes it easier to dust. Ie dust comes off easier but nothing repels dust - if it did I want whatever it is.

I need a rec on a good primer and white trim color for the baseboards.

Zinsser's 123 and Ben Moore's Super White.

Do you want a white-white for the trim or more of a slightly off white?

I like SW Extra White for a bright, crisp white. I prefer satin finish for the look, but semi-gloss might be easier to dust. I don't like high gloss.

If you go off white, watch the tints. They can be yellow, gold, pink, gray, blue, purple - you name it. There are lots of great choices in every family. SW Dover White is the most popular of SW's off whites. It has a very slight yellow/gold tint. SW Alabaster is also a nice warm white and I also like SW Westhighland White.

Decide if you want a warm or cool off white and check the whites color charts wherever you buy your paint to find the right tint.

I second the Zinnser 123 and vote for Ben Moore White Dove in WB Satin Impervo

You can prime if off the wall if you like. Then bring the wood into the house and sticker it and let it acclimate a bit before your first cut. Use a sharp coping or jigsaw to handle where it meets in the corners

Be sure to take the time to get a good straight, smooth caulk joint between the top of the baseboard and the wall. No wall is ever as flat as a well-milled stock. Use a nail set carefully.

Then touch up any dings and hit the nail holes with some wood filler (or spackle) , prime over the caulk and dings and nail holes, sand one last time, vacuum well and tack it off.

Use a high quality slanted brush, good light and with a confident, steady hand you can zip right along with the finish paint's first coat.

The sand, vac and tack it again and then put a final smooth, smooth, smooth coat on the baseboard. Sit right on on the floor and make it perfect.

It will be a pleasure to live with for years. Store some of the finish paint in a couple of small, full=up, tightly closed, well-labeled 1/4 cup mason jars. These are your long-term, ding-fixin' kits. Paint that's stored in a can that is opened and re-closed repeatedly will eventually dry out. But those little jars will stay fine for years and years.

HTH

L.

You can prime it off the wall if you like. Then bring the wood into the house and sticker it and let it acclimate a bit before your first cut. Use a sharp coping or jigsaw to handle where it meets in the corners

Be sure to take the time to get a good, straight, smooth caulk joint between the top of the baseboard and the wall. No wall is ever as flat as a well-milled stock. Use a nail set carefully.

Then touch up any dings and hit the nail holes with some wood filler (or spackle) , prime over the caulk and dings and nail holes, sand one last time, vacuum well and tack it off.

Use a high quality slanted brush, good light and with a confident, steady hand you can zip right along with the finish paint's first coat.

The sand, vac and tack it again and then put a final smooth, smooth, smooth coat on the baseboard. Sit right on on the floor and make it perfect.

It will be a pleasure to live with for years. Store some of the finish paint in a couple of small, full-up, tightly closed, well-labeled 1/4 cup mason jars. These are your long-term, ding-fixin' kits. Paint which is stored in a can that is opened and re-closed repeatedly will eventually dry out. But those little jars will stay fine for years and years.

HTH

L.

If the wood has knotholes, you'll want a primer that, among other things, will permanently cover knotholes. Some primers, high quality though they may be and regardless of their ability to cover a variety of stains, are not able to cover knotholes; if you use one of those, eventually, the knothole will show through the paint, regardless of the number of coats of paint you've applied.