How close can we build to this tree?

10 years ago

Here's the tree in question. It's 18' from the side of the house, not counting the bump-out laundry room.

That bump-out is an added-on 5'x6' that was so poorly constructed (foundation, walls) it needs to be torn down. Since we're going to dig proper footings and reconstruct it, we figured "while we're at it" we might was well make it bigger. We're thinking 10'x11' or so, and it can then serve as laundry, mudroom, and other storage.

So how close can we get to the tree without killing it? In all honesty, I suppose I don't care if we kill it. It's a sweet gum tree and we hate all the prickly balls. I wouldn't mind putting a couple fruit trees on that side of the house instead.

While you're offering your advice on that, one other question about what the (larger) laundry/mud room roof should look like relative to the main, rectangular house. Would you do a gable to mimic the main and porch gables? Or something else?

Here's another shot of it, showing where we borrowed some siding to patch over where we shrunk a window on the other side of the house.

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Comments (10)

User
10 years ago
You shouldn't construct within the drip line of the tree, which is usually about half as it is tall. That includes construction traffic and equipment storage being kept away from the tree. Since the home is already very close or already within the drip line of the tree, and you don't like it anyway, have it removed and it will make the construction easier logistically.
Embothrium
10 years ago
It would be nice if you could expand in some other direction, as you can't count on cuts and fills not damaging trees subjected to them. All true trees (as opposed to palms and bananas etc.) have extensive, mostly superficial root systems that often extend well beyond the branch spread - only in deserts do normal tree (as opposed to tap and anchorage) roots "go deep" with any regularity.

The main problem with building over tree roots is cutting them off from the full amount of moisture coming out of the atmosphere; of course if you actually physically cut them off entirely with a blade - or kill them with soil compaction then the rest of the tree will not be getting any water from them then either.
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I'd like to keep my actual location private ==>> of course.. but z6 north IL is a bit different from z6 NC ... or MS... or KS... etc ... i dont want your address.. i want to know night humidity... day humidity.. declination of the sun ... elevation.. etc ... there are simply so many variables.. that MIGHT matter ... also.. if i had a state.. i might be inclined to google up your state conservation district ... and see what they offer online ... baaaaah ... lol all this and that said ... trees put their roots where they are 'good' for the tree .. they arent so stupid.. to grow down into water they dont want ... ah.. 'advantageous' is the word i was struggling for .... the key.. in my world.. is planting small.. and letting a small plant.. get itself established ... in its spot .. now.. if you are bringing in 10 foot ball and burlap trees... that will take 5 years to get re-established.. i could see all kinds of problems... like slipping down the hill.. falling over .. etc .... anyway ... you want peeps in a similar circumstance to you but you want to hold back pertinent info .. your choice.. but the more you give us ... the better the replies ... [e.g. my name inplies adrian MI .. but if you tried to find me on that.. you would have to search about 20 square miles .. and good luck with that ] GOOD LUCK .... ken ps: another e.g. ... one of our friends here.. is z5 KC .... he can not grow half the stuff i do.. due to that little river nearby ... and night humidity ... and it might be important in regard to whether plicata is proper ... unless you are sure of that part ....
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Oaktown
10 years ago
Suggest that you decide whether or not you want to keep the tree. If it is important, you can consult with an arborist about how to improve the chances of the tree remaining healthy. There are different options for foundation design, options for hand digging and wrapping roots, but those naturally are accompanied by additional expense...
PRO
Joseph Corlett, LLC
10 years ago
Since you don't care that much about the tree, I would suggest an immediate root prune. If the tree survives, keep going, it it doesn't, take it down.

We lived in a condo that was built well within the rain line of a big beautiful walnut; it came through our deck on two levels. The tree was stunned for a few years but recovered nicely.
weedyacres
Original Author
10 years ago
Boy, I was worried I'd get a lot of pushback from people saying "don't kill a 100-year-old tree!" :-) Now I'm feeling much more inclined to just chop the thing down.
User
10 years ago
It's a sweetgum. Pretty to look at in a national forest in the fall when they turn purple, but a nasty horrible tree to have in your yard. If it were an oak or a maple, you'd get plenty of people trying to get you to work with it and protect it.
chibimimi
10 years ago
On the roofline question, a gable perpendicular to the front and porch gables would look consistent and add charm.
weedyacres
Original Author
9 years ago
Timber!!!!

Thanks to everyone for giving me permission to cut it down. And from the stump grindings we got a fabulous pile of browns to compost through the rest of the summer.
gyr_falcon
9 years ago
Good choice, and it looks better already! Although, green grass and leafed-out trees (compared to the first photo) might have a little to do with that. ;)
jellytoast
9 years ago
What a pretty piece of property!

How close can we build to this tree?

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How close can we build to this tree?

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