Totally buffaloed on wainscot issue..

14 years ago

I am in the process of having beaded wainscot installed in my living room. The installer ran into an issue on the one long wall he was doing where the end of the panels do not meet up with a stud. I have a couple panels where the ends will simply not adhere to the wall and keep popping loose. He tried to tack it in with a few nails and then jimmy rigging up boards to apply pressure to the end. This stayed in place for several hours but when removed, the ends just popped back up.I messed with it a little bit to no avail last night and finally made the call to take that one panel off before it got too tight to take off. All the glue in the middle parts were still dampish but the ends of course were dry.

I need some kind of idea on how to solve this problem before he comes back on Friday. If anyone has any, I would be ever so grateful! Thanks!

Teresa

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Comments (16)

macv
14 years ago
It's not clear how the paneling is designed but you should be able to add some blocking.
jbranch
14 years ago
What kind of adhesive is being used? I would think that liquid nail or similar adhesive would work. Is it going over sheetrock? As Macy said, your installer could cut a hole in the wall, insert 2x4 blocking and the wainscot would easily cover the hole.
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mooie
Original Author
14 years ago
Thanks...yes, it's being installed over sheetrock. He's using liquid nails for wood. The wainscot is simple beadboad wood panels. I see this morning that another area has popped free also....sigh. It's just the full panels. The cut ones are adhering fine.
brickeyee
14 years ago
Time for some blocking in the wall.

I normally cut the drywall with a Rotozip, install the blocking for the wainscoting and to fasten the drywall back in the opening, put the removed piece of drywall back in the opening, mesh tape on the seams, a layer of Easysand20, and keep going after it is hard.

The seams are only 1/8 inch wide so there is not that much moisture present in the compound to cause problems with the wainscoting.
worthy
14 years ago
The liberal use of Liquid Nails is a poor excuse for basic carpentry. Block it. All the panels should have been nailed to studs as well. The adhesive tends to dry up and release its grip over time.
mooie
Original Author
14 years ago
He did nail where there were studs. And everything I've read on it has said to use adhesive on different areas of the panel. I'm guessing for extra support. I will tell him tomorrow about the blocking and see what he says. He gives me the feeling he is in over his head. I know I am! : )

Teresa
sierraeast
14 years ago
What are the panels made of. Are they a grooved/veneered plywood, or the particle board panels you get at the big box stores?
sierraeast
14 years ago
Is the installer using a pneumatic nailer for the fasteners. As others have stated, blocking is your only recourse for reliability, but if they are using pneumatics and are sinking the fasteners too deep, that could be one problem area, especially if its core is particle board concerning the panels.
mooie
Original Author
14 years ago
These are birch panels. Not veneered or mdf. What we've decided to do, is on the panel next to the one I removed, we're going to cut the panel back to the stud, cut that panel off there which is on the groove and go from there. He should have done that from the git go. then he would have been able to follow the 16" centers... He's using regular paneling nails.
Jon1270
14 years ago
These are birch panels. Not veneered or mdf.

I hope you're wrong about that. If these things are arriving as big, 4' x 8' sheets then they are most certainly veneered or MDF. Plywood is made of veneers.
andrelaplume2
14 years ago
I installed 30" high mdf around my dining room after painting it. I was installed over sheetrock with nails (do not recall the size but large than panel nails--I know I used this guey stuff (plumbers putty?) to fill the holes). I also used dots of liquid nails as I reacll on the back of the panels. I am sure I did not end on a stud every time. I have some decorative molding running across the bottom and top. Nothing has popped off in 3 years. Could it be the installer had an old or bad batch of liquid nails OR the walls are just that much out of square?
mooie
Original Author
14 years ago
Maybe I'm wrong that they aren't solid birch but I've checked them over and over and see nothing to indicate that they are veneer or mdf. But whatever the case may be, I had him back up the one panel to the stud and start from there and after that, everything went smoothly. Until the last piece however. He cut it wrong and he's replacing it for me this weekend. Seems like this project has been going on forever! : )
someone2010
14 years ago
You are supposed to make your layout so your paneling lines up with the studs as you said. If for some reason you can't do that your can either use a sheet of 1/2" MDF for backing or attach furring strips 1/2" x 2" to the wall, bottom, middle and top and shimmed so they are plumb.
brickeyee
14 years ago
"You are supposed to make your layout so your paneling lines up with the studs as you said."

Wainscoting is sized for the room to make the panels look proportionate to the areas being covered.

The stud layout is NOT a consideration.

Putting an MDF panel or furring strips is going to result in an oversize cap at the top of the wainscoting that is going to look clumsy.

The real thing is frame and panel construction with the horizontal rails being continuous over each wall span in the room.
Fastening these long pieces to the studs is not an issue.

Simply applying bead board to a wall is not wainscoting.
mooie
Original Author
14 years ago
It's wainscoting to *me*.
someone2010
14 years ago
My mistake. I thought, in an earlier post, he said the wainscoting was simple beadboard wood panels. As I understand it, mooie is not installing frame and panel wainscoting. He is installing panels of board with a grove and bead. Much wainscoting is beadboard or beadboard panels. If the wall is not flat you can use strips of furring with shims, where needed, to make a plumb and level surface to nail to. You can also 1/2" Mdf for the same purpose. In any case, mooie is correct by adjusting the panels so he can nail to the studs.

Totally buffaloed on wainscot issue..

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Totally buffaloed on wainscot issue..

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