Whooee! You do have a project house!

Number one. Do NOT prime/paint over mold. Whatever is moldy needs to be removed and replaced. Period. There is no safe way to cover/mitigate existing mold.

The best way to learn how to do all you mentioned is to get books on each subject. Pick the most important area(mold) and fix that. You do not need to remove entire sheets of drywall. Just cut out about a foot above the mold and replace just that section.

Do the mold repair and then the paint changes. One shortcut to painting is to use BIN primer(by Zinsser) and tint to the chosen new wall color. That allows you to paint without really serious cleaning, that primer will actually cover normal household grime/deposits. One coat of primer and one coat of paint usually does the trick. Otherwise, you have to use two coats of paint as a rule, and paint has to go on a clean surface.

Remove all the trim before painting.

Trimm installation does take some special tools. Miter saw(manual or power--manual setups average $25 to $100, power saws start at $100 and go to $800). Manual takes a long time to do, but with a little practice the resulting look is indistinguishable from a power saw job. I recomment cope cutting inside joints. A trim book will show that technique.

Flooring would be among the last areas to do. Books again will show the necessary stuff.

These books are available at home improvement stores---$10 to $20---well worth the money.

handymacs suggestion of getting books on the various subjects should be good for you since your 'handle' is bookjunky! : )

Just wanted to say good luck with your big endeavor and welcome to the remodeling forum! Check out the kitchen and home decorating forums too as they are quite busy.

Sandy

Handymac- Regarding the mold, is there a difference between mold and mildew? Other people have told me to clean the area with bleach water, and then paint it with Killz. I used to work for an attorney and I know full well how serious mold is. It can be every bit as devastating as a total loss fire. I definitely will be removing the moldy/mildewed areas of drywall. I'm glad I asked here.

I looked at composite trim at Menards last night and it just doesn't seem very durable. I will likely just try to find something to match -- my boss thinks its stained pine trim --and finish what's not done and replace the pieces that are fitting right. I will also take it all down and varnish it when I paint the rooms. THANK YOU for advising to take down all the trim when painting. That was my plan but no one else thought that was necessary.

My boss suggested I paint with primer. Then use some kind of paint that has Killz in it already. She suggested latex paint. Any suggestions on paint? The walls already have sprayed on textured paint on them in psycho colors.

Bleach will not remove mold/mildew spores. It is mush better to remove it by removing the affected sheetrock.

It is more work, but the only sure long term repair.

Kilz is a wonderful coverage product. I have used it to cover non mloded water stains on sheetrock. I prefer BIN or Bullseye 123, both made by Zinsser. Those paint more easily and stick to various surfaces better, in my experience.

Matching trim color(stained) is difficult. One way to do that economically is to start with one room, all the useable trim, and do the trim in that room. Move to the next room until you run out of enough old to do the remaining rooms. Buy new to finish. That makes all the trim in each room match and any color difference is less noticeable.

To remove old trim, use a flat bar and a wide putty knife. Slide the putty knife behind the trim and pry just enough to make a gap. Insert the 90 degree end of the flat bar between the molding and the putty knife. Pry left or right, NOT up or down. Up/down bends the nails and more easily breaks the molding. Left/right pulls the nails straight out ans is less injurious to the molding. Prying against the putty knife eliminates gouging the dry wall.

Once you get the molding off, pull the nails out from the BACK side of the molding. Use vice grips or channel lock pliers to grasp the nail and use the curved nose of the pliers as a fulcrum. Pulling the nails from the back leaves the front of the molding as it was, pushing nails back out the front splinters the molding.

Tint the primer to the paint color. I have painted over colors that required two coate of primer and two of paint to cover. Or one primer and three paint.

I favor Sherwin Williams paints. Just have better results when i use that brand. Latex enamel is fine. Just don't expect the primer to cover all the color, primers look terrible sometimes, but all they do is provide a base for the paint.