Not too neat in their cutting were they ? You can tuck point and fill the holes / lines your self. Rinse the area of excess dirt / dust with water. When almost dry, fill the holes with mortar / cement, pack them solid. and make the cement flush with the block. When the cement is becoming hard but not all the way hard take a damp sponge and lightly rub over the cement to make it look uniform like the block itself.

Long term, you would likely do best to replace the siding. Vinyl can be pretty much maintenance free through your lifetime. Concrete based sidings can achieve the same look as you now have and have limited maintenance through the years. Personally, I would get rid of any type exterior wall covering that needed continual mainetanance like T1-11 or cedar given the choice.

Assuming the pump is the problem, DO NOT continue trying to run the machine with a potentially bad pump or the motor board can get zapped. Although ... you do (presumably) have the spare board, so there's that. There is no belt. F&P developed the SmartDrive direct-drive motor (which is now used on many other brands, both topload and frontload) in the 1990s First step is examine the pump for evidence of leaking ... rusting and/or mineral deposits from seeping water. Fault 37 is inferred by way of the water level not dropping during drain when it should be dropping. The machine does not directly monitor pump operation. Clogged inlet screens would have no relation to Fault 37. Fault 37 can also be caused by malfunction of the diverter valve, which results in recirculation instead of draining. Debris (lint, strings, a dime) caught in it can prevent it from shifting to drain position. Or the valve can be bad. Or the motor board can fail in a way that keeps the diverter continually energized (in recirculate mode) unless the power cord is disconnected from the wall outlet. Replacement pumps are available. The original style pump went NLA a few years ago (due to the source vendor shutting down). F&P has sourced a replacement from a different vendor. It can be found online at various sources by searching the part number 479595. Just to say, it's not cheap. Replacement pumps include a fuse kit, which is spliced into one of the pump wires in the console to help protect the board from future pump failures. Your machine presumably doesn't already have the fuse unless the pump has previously been replacement from the original. F&P no longer sells topload models on the U.S. market per their web site (which shows two frontload models), so I'd be surprised if your local dealer can get one ... unless he's importing 120v foreign models. The machine can be kept running for as long as you can find any needed parts. Used parts can sometimes/usually be found on eBay depending on what's offered at any point in time, if something is needed that otherwise is discontinued.

Thank you! I have most of the tools (not the cat’s claw or cleat - will have to google those). I do a lot of finish work. The foundation is piers. Under the house in the crawl space are several concrete cinderblock stacks that support the first floor. That is all inside the brick skirt, which I believe is about 3” thick (clay bricks with holes). The floor of the crawl space is dirt, but it has been covered with a thick ”plastic-ish” vapor barrier and the crawl space sealed/encapsulated with dehumidifier. In other words, the crawl space is now clean and climate controlled, but the base is soft (dirt). The 2x10s appear to sit on top of the brick skirt. So I assume the brick skirt provides support for the frame. When I take pics of the crawl space, that may become more clear. I probably have to remove more subfloor to see everything that’s going on. The roof shingles were recently replaced (full roof replacement) and they did not charge me extra for decking, so I assume the roof structure underneath was in good shape. It is a steep roof (guessing 57 degrees) so it was not subjected to a lot of wear. With regard to the subfloor, I think the crawl space installer was mistaken about what was damaged. I have to spend some time in the crawl space to test all the subfloor. I think most of the damage is along the back edge of the house behind the deck. If there is other damage, it would probably be related to plumbing leaks. I do know that the bathtub drain leaked and that probably damaged the subfloor underneath. The good news about the subfloor is that it is 2 layers: 5/8” plywood over 1/2” plywood, with a black vapor barrier in between. I plan to patch it with 3/4” advantix and 3/8” plywood underlayment inside the house, with any necessary blocking between joists to stabilize. At most, the damaged subfloor to be removed is within 20” of the exterior wall. I’ll be adding a 1/4” hardiebacker layer and porcelain tile planks. With the piers cinderblocks supporting the double subfloor, I feel pretty good about the stiffness of the floor. It feels solid. (I removed the carpet months ago and covered it with plastic sheeting until I can get it tiled, so I have been walking on it.) The upper window is an issue, but again, I think that was flashing-related - there is a flashed metal platform under that window and the backsplash from that probably eroded the siding and trim around the window. I plan to replace that damaged wood with water-resistant trim. The window is directly above the middle of the kitchen ceiling, and that ceiling appears to be fine. I’ll go over these suggestions and do more research this week. Thank you so much for the leads!