***"I guess the correct way to do that would be to get a compression gauge"*** Actually, even that is really not an accurate assessment of compression (or leakage of compression) on these engines. Some of these engines feature an Automatic Compression Release (ACR) which lowers the compression during cranking for esae of starting. The ACR renders a cranking compression test inconclusive at best. Kohler prefers a cylinder leakdown test to determine how well a cylinder is making and holding compression/combustion. Here is my standard poorboy leakdown test. A "cylinder leak down" test (or reasonable facsimile) using compressed air can be done to identify the route by which the compression is escaping. To do a "bona fide" leak down test requires a "percent of leakage gauge". A close approximation of the test can still be done if you have (1)Compressed air available, and (2) a threaded adapter fitting that will screw into the spark plug hole and also plug in to an air hose, (3) a means of securely locking the crankshaft/flywheel in the "TDC of compression stroke" for the cylinder to be tested. Locking or holding the engine from turning when compressed air is applied to the cylinder is very important, both for personal safety, and, for accurate test results!! Actual testing is simple and amounts to "listening" to determine where the air is escaping when compressed air is applied to the cylinder through the spark plug hole adapter fitting. As follows: Turn the crankshaft/flywheel to position the piston of the testable cylinder to TDC of the compression stroke. Here's a hint, the valve train for both valves of that cylinder will place the valves in the closed position. You determine this by watching the tappets through the open valve compartment (if applicable) or by watching the valves with the valve cover removed. When both TAPPETS or lifters, are retracted toward the camshaft, and you can detect clearance between the end of valve and the tappet.....lock the flywheel in place so the crankshaft can't turn when air pressure is applied to the cylinder. Failure to securely lock the flywheel against moving could result in personal injury if the crankshaft rotates in reaction to the compressed air applied to the cylinder. In addition to the locking of flywheel, keep your hands away from the flywheel and crankshaft until air pressure is disconnected from cylinder. With the flywheel locked securely, thread the adapter fitting into the spark plug hole (be sure to have one of the spark plugs with you when you buy the adapter fitting) and tighten it so it can't leak air. Connect the air hose from a source of compressed air (60psi to 90 psi recommended). IF, there is a loss of compression, you will hear air leaking from somewhere. Carefully determine where the air is escaping by using a 2 foot length of hose or tubing. Place one end of the hose or tube close to an ear (but not inside your ear) and then move the other end of hose to the exit portal of the exhaust system. If air is heard loudly escaping here, the defect is in the exhaust valve or seat. Check the intake valve condition by moving the end of the hose to the throat of the carb (throttle must be held wide open, choke butterfly open, and any crankcase breather hose must be disconnected from the carb, (if carb is mounted to the intake manifold). If carb has been removed, place the hose into the intake manifold. If air is heard loudly here, the defect is in the intake valve or seat. If you do not detect air escaping from either of those places, check to see if you can hear air escaping from the crankcase breather hose (or pulse hose if impulse fuel pump is present). If you hear air escaping from the crankcase breather hose, or pulse hose, the defect is in the piston or cylinder wall. Always remove the compressed air supply from the cylinder before unlocking the flywheel. A leaking head gasket serious enough to cause loss of compression would be obvious without any test equipment, and you know it right away when the engine is running.

I was going to get plugmold, but my electrician balked because it is more of a PITA to install. Yes, I know that people on this forum always recommend to stand up for what you want with your contractor, and make the contractor do those PITA things, but actually, I wasn't so sure I really wanted it. So he pushed me around, and I guess I let him! And I did feel I would not like the dangling cords. So I had initially put plugmold on my Scope of Work, but actually have not minded not having it, although others' pics of their plugmold look really cool. Also, I could not have done an install of a receptacle the way Bluekitobsessed's photo shows. My electrician insisted on the 4" height above the counters. The receptacles are still low enough to be hidden behind things like the tea kettle and coffee pot, so I am happy with how it turned out. I recommend that the OP should check into what is Code in his/her area so as to be prepared when talking to the electrician. My undercabinet light switch is, however, in the middle of the backsplash. It's not so bad. I don't even notice it. I don't have a switch for the disposal because I have a batch feed style disposal which does not need a switch. Since this is Bellcrest's first time posting, I feel compelled to say that you will sometimes get one unhelpful post among a whole bunch of nice ones, and don't worry about it. Please don't be turned off to this Forum by Sombreuil Mongrel's sarcasm. We are really a nice bunch here! Most of us have either been through the arduous reno process or are currently going through it, and sometimes this Forum is the only place we can turn to where people will relate and empathize (versus DH's or other family members who are tired of hearing these questions, sigh). Keep your questions coming!

The outlets Jakabedy posted are the ones I have on our backsplash. We have way too many outlets on our splash and it's ridiculous. In your case I would take a tile to the paint store and have them match it. Fwiw, they can do it exactly. Don't settle for close enough if it looks a tad off and they're trying to tell you it won't be noticeable when installed blah, blah. I have them adjust, adjust, adjust. Someday when I redo a kitchen the outlets will be under the cabinets (forget what that's called) so you don't see them at all. Like Bumble I have the other outlet covers (and vents) in our house painted too.

This company makes your receptacle covers match your stone counters/backsplash: http://www.stonewallplates.com/index.html Cloud Swift also made her receptacle covers blend into her backsplash, but her amazing photos are gone from this thread, but I found one pic, and in the thread she provides info and link: [https://www.houzz.com/discussions/cloud-swiftyour-outlet-covers-dsvw-vd~2575553?n=5[(https://www.houzz.com/discussions/cloud-swiftyour-outlet-covers-dsvw-vd~2575553?n=5) Another poster is Oldbat2be who did decoupage for her receptacle covers: https://www.gardenweb.com/discussions/2699772/has-anyone-made-switchplates-out-of-tile?n=15