I wish I had some advice but I haven't done beads in my quilting (yet). I just wanted to say that I hope you can show the picture after the washing. I bet this quilt is going to come alive with movement! This technique is really interesting to me. It's like painting a picture and watching as it progresses!

One question. Can you do some of the beading after the quilt has been washed? It might be helpful to see how the final piece will look before you add more beads. Just a thought.

Susan

I would recommend waiting until you've done the multiple washings before adding the beads. Especially because you've used some large beads and they'll get beaten up in the washer. Normally I only use beads on wall hangings although I've used a few on table runners - not things that typically get washed very often.

The dryer is really hard on beads, especially wooden ones or large glass beads. They can become brittle when warmed up so the combination of dryer heat and pounding against the sides of the dryer can cause breakage.

When sewing them on, be sure to tie off the thread with a simple knot in the fabric after every few beads. This way, if the thread breaks you'll only lose a few beads. Plan on some breakage over the years and stash a small package of beads under the quilt label so that they can be added when needed!

HTH (hope that helps)

Kate

The quilt is going to be beautiful!!!!
I have only used beads on a decorative quilt that wasn't used very much. I sewed them knotting each one individually. It did take a long time but if the thread breaks all of them will not come off.
The quilt was hand washed and dried outside.
Sew on as Kate suggested and after the final wash as Susan suggested.
I would avoid the dryer.
Rosa

Hmmm. I hadn't thought about breakage of the beads themselves, only losing them from a loose thread.

My only tip is not to put them on before FMQ. They really stop you when you are on a roll. Don't ask me how I know.

Yes! Good point! Do all your quilting before you sew on the beads.

I would suggest that you get any of Mary Stori's books on beading. Right now her DVD is on sale at Nancy's Notions for about $14 I think. I took a class with her this March and she was great.

Yes, you want to wait until AFTER the piece is quilted to bead. I would also suggest using Nymo thread to stitch with. Mary uses an applique or between size 10 to bead depending on what she's doing. You also want to secure the bead by taking a stitch in between beads.

I took a beginning class for beaded jewelery once. They emphasized this bit I found online for you--

""Czech beads are superior in everyway to similar beads from other nations, such as India, Germany, and France, except for those of Japan. Japanese beads are more consistent in size (both in outer diameter, and inner diameter), and usually have more durable finishes. This consistency in size is extremely important, especially if doing intricate, very detailed bead work. The inside holes are not as sharp or jagged as those beads from other countries. Japanese beads are somewhat more expensive (about 1/3 more) than Czech beads.

When people are getting started with seed beads, we suggest trying both the Japanese beads and the Czech beads. The Japanese beads are easier to use because they are more uniform and have a larger and more consistently-sized hole. However, because the Japanese beads tend to be so perfect, you sometimes end up with a piece that looks like a paint-by-number Elvis on velvet. With the Czech beads, you get a more organic, artistic look.""

My teacher made a big deal about it, showed microscope pics and everything, to convince not to "waste your time" on beading cheap beads because the project would slice itself apart in a year. Made in China beads are the absolute worst--they don't even bother mentioning them above as contenders!

I have a bead collection for jewelry making and I completely agree about Chinese beads! You can recognize them instantly for their cloudy appearance and obvious irregularity.