I do have the new model and have the chrome finish due to 1) cheaper price tag and 2) my sink is right in front of a garden window and I like the look of the shiny facet in front of the window (I would prefer polished nickel to match with my other finish in the kitchen but they don't have that) I have polished nickel pendant lights and knobs/pulls. The shiny chrome fits well and the difference between the color tone is not pronounce as they are in different elevation and at a distance. I wipe down the faucet whenever I am done with the sink and I have no issue with water mark (although my kitchen is still new but I have had Grohe chrome faucet in my previous house bathroom for years and that was like new when I moved out) The model I have can lock the spray.

I'd do a matte black faucet and either black or a black nickel pull. what color is your countertop that you're choosing a brown sink? are your cabinets going to look this red? There is another poster on here who did custom sawn oak cabinets in this color, which is beautiful, and a copper sink. if you notice, she did the dark hardware.

@annoulaxeni Thank you very much for your comments! I wanted to wait to reply until I had time to respond to your many points! Uplights: I love that idea. For a long time I've wanted tray lighting, and I was thinking about doing something at the base of the slopey part of our ceiling, like this: It would be down the line, but it's something I've been thinking about. > I see you have put in floor outlets and clearly on the artwork wall you have electrical supplies present, so why not move in, deal with the more significant pieces first, and by using flexible/moveable lighting for a bit, slowly progress toward confirming if you desire fixed wall lighting, and if so, where. I think this is what we will do. I believe everybody that the sconce placement is not the best, but since the builder won't move it anyway, this is a plan I can deal with. :) > I don't see the purpose of the second console. The primary purpose is to have a place to put drinks if you're sitting in the middle of the couch that isn't in the way if you want to stretch about. We're not only a TV family, but an eating-in-front-of-the-TV family, so it will be nice to have a place to put plates to keep them out of the way after we finish eating. (Since the ottoman will have our feet on it!) I've never had a big sectional before, so I'm just guessing here, but that's the motivation. > What do those gorgeous windows covering the one wall look out on? Right outside the windows is our back porch, which you can see a couple of pictures of here: https://www.houzz.com/discussions/6146979/where-should-we-put-the-stairs-off-our-back-porch We also have a view of some trees, sky, and a few houses. The porch has a ceiling as high as the living room and we have can lights out there as well as a lighted ceiling fan. I'm not sure I entirely understand what you were getting at with your question there, but it sounded interesting and I would love to understand it! > Keep your major pieces ($$$) neutral, Add in your accents and the colors that will link various elements in the smaller, less-expensive pieces. This is what I'm going to try to do! Hopefully I am able to create the look I want. > A white sofa can be gorgeous. It WILL get dirty... Yes, for sure! We're going to get a Lovesac sectional where all the covers for seats/backs/cushions can be individually washed in the washing machine. The fabric we want ("coastal white weave") is recommended to line dry, so we may get one extra of each type so we always have a clean one to put on. I'm a little nervous to have a white couch, but browsing on Houzz it seems that people who want one usually find it to be worth the inconvenience of occasional washing. And having the covers be modular certainly minimizes the inconvenience. > Choosing paint to go with other elements is easy because there are a zillion colors so it can happen last. My plan is to leave the living room the neutral we've picked (SW Agreeable Gray) because of how open that area of the house is. If we changed the color in here, it would have to flow into a lot of other adjacent rooms. But we're okay with that, and I like this neutral a lot. I'm planning to put other colors in one or two other rooms later (that are not connected to the living room). > Same logic for choosing a plain carpet. If I can, I was going to try to find a rug that has 1-2 colors from the wall art in it. If I can't, I'll just get something neutral. I had read that indoor/outdoor rugs are much cheaper, and it seems Amazon has many large rug options that are relatively inexpensive (compared to a fancy real indoor rug), so I'm going to try that route first. We can't let the rug influence the couch color because we don't have many white options with Lovesac. One is a color I don't care for, another is pretty but in a fabric that apparently catches pet hair in a way that is hard to clean, and the others are microfibers and my husband can't stand to touch microfiber. So there's really only the one option for us, and we'll just have to find a rug somewhere that can work with that. I made my own Maria Killam undertone color wheel with Sherwin Williams paint samples (from the info at https://mariakillam.com/colourwheel/), so I'm hopeful that that will be enough to ensure I get a rug that is compatible. Fingers crossed. > And, finally, both in terms of color AND lighting, pay careful attention to the color temperature of all your lights! I have a feeling this is going to be an annoying thing to get right since we have high ceilings and can lights, but it drives me nuts when the lights in a room aren't the same color. So definitely I'm going to do this! Thank you very much for all your thoughtful comments!

Just as long as you have them in a similar style. Just so you know - cherry and gold are warm colors, and chrome and stainless steel are cool colors. I prefer all warm colors OR all cool colors in a room. The only exception is if you have a nuetral color like taupe, greige, or bronze that can bring the two together.