Agreed Mike - on several levels. @ struw - What - non-pathogenic tumors? Bacteria can be non-pathogenic. As far as I know genetic mutation is non-pathogenic, though it could be argued that you have to have a trigger, such as lack of UV light to turn it on, which is perhaps where they were going with it, but that's not stated in the article. And there are no additional studies to confirm this. The only one that comes close was done by Tibbitts in '83. And as far as citations, fine. Here's one. This one (which "cites" Morrow and Tibbitt's work) offers the following: "specifically, intumescences develop when the interaction of high temperature and high humidity causes the rate of water absorption by plant tissues to exceed the transpiration rate. Other environmental factors, including light quality, may also promote (Morrow and Tibbitts 1988) or inhibit (Jones and Burgess 1977) intumescence formation. The developmental process of intumescence formation is unclear. Balge et al. (1969) and Eisa and Dobrenz (1971) described the rupturing of epidermal cells caused by cell enlargement (hypertrophy) of underlying water-soaked palisade cells, the walls of which have been softened by cellulase activity (Kawase 1981). Other studies indicate that intumescences are formed predominantly by cell division (hyperplasia; La Rue 1933c) or by a combination of hyperplasia and hypertrophy (Wolf and Lloyd 1912) that may be cytokinin- or auxin-regulated (Morrow and Tibbitts 1988)." At the beginning it states that M&T (among others) wrongly portrayed these to be tumors and that they are instead blown up cells. While light temperature "may" promote or inhibit this effect, the main culprits are humidity and temperature. And I've spent more time than I care to on this. I wont' even vouch for this study, but I do feel an obligation to block bad science/advice when I see it. And I personally think this post pretty much falls into those categories. I'd hate to think of all the newbies (not unlike myself) trying to figure out how to wire up small halogen lights to their fluorescent fixtures.

Word of caution when adding rails and ladders. They should use non conductive, plastic coated rails, ladders, and sockets. This is due to them not needing to be bonded. Any idea what brand of lights you currently have? I suspect that the pool was build with a inadequate number of fixtures. If, for example, SAM/SAL(Pentair's older style of pool and spa bulb driven coloreds) were used, IntelliBrites would offer some improvement but depending on the pool, may not be as much of an improvement as desired. How many fixtures do you have? How big is the pool? Scott

air tight trim is a joke in my opinion.I base this on having tested for air leakage with a blower door while sealing these lights & trims. the foam rubber gasket does little to stop the air leakage from exiting the trim. the best way I've found is to use the hardcast 1402 mastic tape to seal housing to the sheetrock. similar to how supply box is sealed in pic of previous posting. tape goes into edge of housing and overlaps to sheetrock. allow 1'2" overlap as trim will cover the tape. this with the ICAT recessed light will stop as much of the air leakage as possible. there will still be a small amount of leakage, but not enough to be of concern. note this when you look at the recessed lights again: Halo's insulation contact air tight lights have two things that identify them. no holes in housing and a orange sticker inside the can that says it is air tight. orange sticker, not red. the red sticker says air tight when used with the following trim kits. deceptive lableling IMO. reading the small print inside IC cans the trim kits include, insert/baffle to fit inside the can to address holes in housing (@$14 each) and air tight trim kit, not sure of cost. as the insert/baffle would be needed at every recessed light, buying ICAT makes better economical sense. installing the baffles is a pita. so add labor for that to cost. buy ICAT, use mastic tape in place of 'air tight' trim. if you are putting IC cans outside under porches patio, unconditioned space this is what happens. as the install of recessed lights is ongoing, the electrician mixes up the boxes. some inside are ICAT, some IC. same outside. make it easy on everyone and buy all ICAT. wasps like IC, but not so much ICAT, less air movement. the cost per contractor case between the two is minimal when you compare to retrofitting each IC to air tight. best of luck.

To follow up, the Juno lights as installed look good so far (although my kitchen is flooded with natural light right now, so I won't know for sure until it's dark out) - I took a chance but I love that there's an off/switch on each of the 3 bars (2 24's and 1 12) on the left hand side and a dimmer dial on the right, plus the on/off switch on the wall for all 3 (which are connected), so we can very much customize the amount of light is on and off each time we turn the switch on and off on the wall. or we can leave the wall switch on and use the on-bar controls. It's a lot more versatility than any other LED light that I've seen. And when on full blast the lights are pretty bright, and when dimmed they are pretty dim, so far. What I might do to get around the problem of having reflections on the shiny (Zodiaq cloud white) countertop, is use the stick-on diffusers provided with the environmental lights package, and put those on the Junos and not return them to environmental lights. One thing re environmental lights - they know their stuff, were VERY helpful and I'd love to work with them. I just prefer a dimmer dial. And Juno's customer service is not 24/7 like some electrical support shops - it's just M-F, which I didn't like as much. And the dimmer-dial LEDs we used aren't even on its website, for whatever reason. I tried to call its customer service line today to ask why they aren't on the website and make sure they still support them before deciding which to install - but they aren't available today (a Sunday). For what it's worth, the Juno bars we installed have a 5 year warranty and the environmental lights have a 3 year warranty. I'm not sure why the difference and it wasn't a big factor in deciding, but worthy of note.