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Porches & Decks

Buying IPE online

17 years ago

Hey everyone. I'm new to the site but have read a TON of posts and learned a lot. Wish I had run into this forum before starting my project but better late then never.

I'm doing a covered deck with a little portion uncovered. Some would call it a porch but i'm not having any screen put in and i'm using typical deck railing so call it what you want. In any case the flooring is IPE. I had wrestled around the ideas of PT and FAKE and IPE. Decided on the IPE for looks and longevity. I had PT before and it sucked after a few years and I've heard too many horror stories about the FAKE (plus I don't like walking on plastic)

Checking out IPE prices locally it was shockingly expensive. The highest I saw was 3.94 linear foot,IIRC. So off to the internet I went. I ended up buying from ipedepot.com. I was a little leery at first wondering what would happen if I had any problems. Well, you guessed it, I had problems. Around 20-25% of the delivery was unacceptable. After calling and sending pictures they agreed to replace the wood. So, alls well that ends well. I have to give ipedepot the big thumbs up for customer service. I can highly recommend them. Two guys, Jon and Chris were great to work with.

Currently my deck is framed out and IPE is being put down. I'm using the deckmaster hidden fastener system. yeah, yeah, i know, but it was already started before I found this site. If i had discovered this place 2 weeks prior I would have screwed and plugged. But if looks level and secure. Let's hope it stays that way. And if it doesn't I can always screw and plug it later. BTW, is a 1/8 gap wide enough for 5/4 X 6 IPE?

I'm new to this forum and do have a ton of questions. Should I keep all my questions in one thread? or start a new one with each different topic? (finishing, painting, railings, experiences,pictures, ect....)

thanks

- Geoff

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Comments (5)

john_hyatt
17 years ago
1/8'' gap with 5/4 ipe should be fine.Do not paint ipe. John
g2morrow
Original Author
17 years ago
thanks John - I'm not painting the ipe :D - I do plan on painting the framework (at least the parts you can see) and the the railing. I had to make compromises due to budgetary restraints (wife), I'm doing the railing in PT with an ipe top. How long should I wait before attempting to paint the PT? It is winter time and I don't plan on doing any painting/staining until it warms up (april/may). Is that long enough?

-geoff
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Dont use the clips,dont even think about using tigerclaw bang them in wham bam thank you mamm foolishment. Grade with ipe is a highly garded info subject in the short form you have to trust your supiler or buy local and go see the stuff your own self. Many kinds of trees can be passed off as ipe. But say a Person bought some ipe from say George at East Teak, got quality stuff, stickered it up with fans blowning thru the stack for hmmmmm 30 days or so, installed it perfectly with even the ss insert clips construstion adhesive, perfect spacing, perfect weather, perfect angle with the screw, perfect... ok I am on a rant here. A person still looks down and sees the clip and the screw, And still has the risk happening to them, as several posters over here are questioning , with the high grade ipe lifting from the joists, warping up, and generaly in a fit because ipe wants to lay flat but it cant because it wasent securaly fastened to the frame so its intent to be good cant happen! Why do you Folks still want to use the clips???????? JohnThey are made from solid stainless steel,of course thats not good ss is not strong enough so they would have to do what Hilti came up with building ss tapcons steel with a high grade ss coating. They provide info on install including ground clearance,cross ventalation,weather conditions,moisture, what kind of construstion adhesive to use, angle of the screw and where to put it ( this is something we all need to know). Boys and Girls,,its not gunna happen!! Face fasten,pre drill twice and plug the holes or install T&G material for the no fastener showing look. Its the ol John Mon, I am thinking I will not get involved with clip posts any longer,adding them to the deck finish posts, there is no complete logic with the thinking wanted, and too many people are saying things 180 degree from each other. J
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john_hyatt
17 years ago
By the time the spring comes pt balusters/top bottom rail will have warpped,cracked,splntered, and twisted so it wont matter if you wait or not.Side Note>> there is no reason to wait to finish pt lumber that myth got started by the folks who sell the finish, the longer you wait the more cracks will open the more finish the material will takeGeoff ol son,,dont use pt rail on an ipe project.

As Prince Vallant said " never come between a Women and her Chosen" but....budgetary smugatory!! ghesssssssss you are already bucks up with the ipe dont go cheep and bad with the rail.Idea>> use black allum balusters,power coated alum pipe
g2morrow
Original Author
17 years ago
those are my thoughts exactly but the wife didn't agree :( - I've decided to wait till spring to do the railing by then I'll have saved enough money. Besides, wouldn't use the deck too much in the wintertime anyways. The 1X4, the baluster sits inside the 1 part? There's enough room?

I've also read in other posts your way of covering the ends or facia (sp?) I'll have to hit you up for info when the time comes.
Outdoor_Dreams
17 years ago
Geoff

You can also try cladding your visible framing with a cellular PVC product like Azek or a fiber cement product like Hardie fascia. These products can be painted. Problem with painting the wood framing (I'm assuming PT Pine or Fir) is that you will see the grain pattern appear through the paint unless you put 5-6 coats.

Good luck!

Geoffrey
Outdoor Dreams, Inc.
Colorado

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