I wouldn't mind having a better look at that wall before suggesting something with a lot of root mass, like daylilies or shrubs. There is not much lean on that wall and pressure from within is the last thing you want. I've been poking around my rock walls and garden lately and have noted how much root mass is tending to migrate to areas of consistent dampness. For example, I have a pot standing next to a plant that has a bulky root mass, and although the plant can grow best where there is light, the woody base has pushed itself under the pot. Quite intriguing. In your situation, this tendency is aggravated by the downhill slope, which is where water, and thus roots, will go. Therefore a plant that spreads by stolons would probably not grow uphill, but you may not want to risk it - so none of your Houttuynias or St. John's wort, for example. Something that mats, in contrast, could easily by mowed by the neighbour (or their mowing people). A couple of matting plants that I have had good success with are a spreading veronica (note to self and others: do NOT google "spreading veronica") and a matting dianthus with bright pink flowers. Not sure how they would handle full sun in your climate, but the moisture retention of the rock would help. I think the thymes would be OK too. Which way they spread would partly be determined by the sun - they would grow primarily toward it. I agree that the sedums are not as weed-suppressing as you might think. One that might be would be Sedum 'Angelique', and there are others. Sedum acre would probably also work - but as Yardvaark's description of how to root it suggests, it is rather easy to propagate and so your neighbour's mowing might get it all over her yard - so easy to miss a bit that falls. 'Angelique' will also root where it drops, but because it's bigger and not as fragile it is easier to control the bits. All ground covers need periodic haircuts to avoid getting leggy, woody, and sparse. KarinL

Don't forget, when you cut out a section of the chain link you will need to install an end bar into the remaining sections and fasten them to the steel post. (You may need to put in an end post set up to give your fence enough strength to carry the tension, but this can easily be done.) Otherwise, I think your idea is neat! Oh, by the way, don't forget to recycle whatever fencing you take out. You can either use it to make portable panels, for concrete reinforcement or sell it along with any other scrap steel/metal you have.

My first choice of tools to remove the steel posts would be a "Hot Wrench" which is common trade vernacular for an acetylene torch. With a torch you could burn the posts off flush with the ground, whereas with saws you will probably leave a stub up that will either be a continual trip hazard or a prime method of tearing up your lawn mower.

This is a great thread. I am new to this, but finally got my back patio looking great after living in my house for 14 years. I decide to enjoy my new fire pit and realized THIS is my current view. It's probably pretty obvious why I planted these trees, not to mention the loud kids running around in the back yard all day. But after reading a LOT more about these monster trees, I feel like I may have overshot the runway? I planted these 6' off the property line (and 6' apart, not to their trunk center but the edge of the hole...oops) but am still afraid they may grow over the neighbor's yard. There is no fence or other obstruction between our yards (well, except for the, you know.....Dodge Durango!?!) so I am a little concerned about the intrusion in to the neighbor's property. We aren't the best of friends either, so there's that. The trees are about 18" now so won't be an issue for a while, but they are still young enough I could replant if necessary. I included two pictures to show the property line and how much of my yard space I'm giving up (which I am HAPPY to do to eliminate that horrible eye sore!) Any advice on if I allowed enough room for these things?