I just finished my first deck and I'd like to thank all the people who contribute to this most excellent forum. I decided to use ipe with brown headcote trim screws as recommended by many in this forum, and I am very very pleased with the results. I also decided to use trex for the railing mostly because I like the look and low maintenance but only time will tell if it was a good decision. I'm actually pretty impressed with the rail system - it's very sturdy and was easy to install. I haven't applied finish to the ipe yet and will not get a chance to until spring due to the weather, but I plan to use messmers uv plus.

A few things I've learned this summer working on this project

1. building a deck is a lot of work, more than I originally expected

2. ladders are dangerous. I shattered my wrist falling off a painters ladder that buckled on me. Now I have a plate 10 screws and 4 pins in my wrist that will all get removed later this year. It added a couple months and a couple thousand to the project. no regrets though. love the deck and learned a lot.

3. a 12" miter saw, bow wrench, pipe clamp(s), and impact driver w/ a few extra batteries are a must have. A planer and belt sander was also usefull for final touches in the framing. My cheap rail post level was useless. A long level and water level were priceless.

4. When predrilling holes with the smart bit, make sure you keep it straight with even pressure or the bit will snap sooner than later. Also, if you run into a knot when screwing, don't force it or the screw will snap or strip. Remove the screw and predrill through the knot with a bit down the length of the screw. I felt like a dentist extracting broken bits and screws until I figured it out.

A few details

1. The deck is ~300 square feet . It is on a hill and is 7 to 10 feet high. 2x10 joists, 4x12 beams, 6x6 posts notched for the beams, 12" piers from tube forms. 2 feet cantilever. Stainless fasteners except for galvanized bolts used for rail posts and post fasteners to piers.

2. I picture framed the decking and tried to avoid butt joints in the layout

3. I routed all cuts with a 1/8th inch round over bit and treated them with anchorseal wax right away. I noticed checking in the untreated scraps within hours, but never in the treated cuts. The wax leaves its mark but I hope it will disappear with time or will be hidden by the finish.

4. I also routed a channel for wiring post lights in the 4x4 rail posts which are covered by trex rail post covers. I ordered lights from http://www.thedecklightstore.com. Their customer service is amazing. I plan to install them soon.

5. I used 1/16th inch gaps between the decking approximately. It varied depending on the bow of the boards but the variation is not noticeable and unavoidable unless the ipe is perfect. I used plastic spackle tools as spacers when necessary.

6. I purchased headcote screws, smart bits (which are a must), and stainless steel brads from www.manasquanfasteners.com. Very satisfied with their service.

6. All lumber and trex was purchased from a family owned local lumber yard.

Here is a link to some photos. I'll post more images when I get a chance.

THANKS EVERYONE!