Beautiful! You have done a great job!âº

Looking GooooooooD, those 4x4 ipe posts are working good for ya just the right amount of character.

I am thinking your going with the square balusters be sure the lay out is perfect one little mistake really shines out. John

John: I made 2 jigs using 30" long 1x4. I cut out 1' wide slots and 3.5' spacing between them. I will clamp them on the 2x4 when installing the balusters, so these balusters should be perfectly spaced. However, the distance between the top and bottom 2x4 is slightly short on the upper deck, so the bottom of the baluster will not be flush with the 2x4, it will stick out about 1/16. I clamped a few pieces on, I think they will be OK.

I plan on RAD and stain the deck first, then put these balusters on. Anyone see a poetntial problem with this?

It is better if your going with the rad to put the alum on after. Ken and I dont agree far as the rad being nessacery on a new ipe deck, I always put the twp finish on with out any prep on a new project.

But what the Hay,we all do things a litte different. J

Nelson -
Deck looks awesome. The IPE railings are sweet. Nice cuts. Keep the pictures soming.....

John Hyatt-
I was planning on sanding my deck after its done.....do you think it is necessary to RAD after sanding before applying stain? If not, then what's the best way to make sure all the sawdust is completely gone? Sweep, leaf blower, rinse with garden hose? Thanks.
(Sorry, nelson, not trying to hijack your thread here....)

mike

Not a problem Mike, I'm interested to hear about it too. The main concern I have with RAD it will take an extra 3 days to dry it if I rad. It's not getting any warmer.

RAD or restore a deck is just that if the project needs to be restored. Unless a new project needs to be restored I dont restore it.

We sand where needed not waiting for anything but good weather to put on the finish. I have noticed after the two coats of twp needs touched up a light oxalic acid wash/the second phase of rad dries things out and helps the next coat take in a small way.

The chem in rad dont take away sawdust its all that preasured up water. We usually blow the stuff off with the air chuck. J

Nice job Nelson! Looks like a pro did it.

A rag with mineral spirits works great for picking up the fine dust you get from ipe.

Like John I stain 'em right after it's built, only sanding any small imperfections in the wood & rail caps.

Al

So Nelson.....

it looks like you are just gonna use the RAD system and not sand the deck?

Hi Mike:

I did sand some problem spots and all the screw holes. Took about 5 hours. I had someone helping. I did part 1 of the RAD yesterday, the pressure washer was not working, didn't start on part 2. I'm thinking about skipping step 2 of RAD, I just posted the question on RAD site, don't know if it will hurt things or not. But if it's going to rain like the forecast says, then maybe I will go ahead with step 2, since i can't get 3 strainght dry days anyway.

Nelson and Michael,

You guys both built great decks. I'd be happy to have either of you on my crew (if I had a crew).

steve

Hey Nelson great job. deck looks great. what type of ballusters are you going to use? I am going to start my railing soon, and looking for a rather simple straight forward design. yours look simple enough that a fireman can do it.How far apart are your posts, and do you have an idea on cost per section? Is The railing all Ipe? I have a radius that I am stressing over, I would like to have the railing appear to match the deck curve. unsure at this time how to do it. My wife would like a curved Ipe planter for the curve.She is beginning to think I know what i am doing.
thanks Bob

Bob: Glad to help.

The longest spacing between posts is 6'6" (forth picture from the top), some as short as 3'. All the material above joist is Ipe. The railing cap is a 5/4x6, East Teak cut a 1/4" deep, 1.5" wide slot on, so it's more stable sitting on top of the 2x4.

The balluster I plan on using is the Deckroator 1" wide, 1/2" thick tradional style. See link: http://www.deckorators.com/traditional-Baluster.htm. They go on the out side of the 2x4, which I will do after staining.

The cost for all the 4x4, 5/4x6 and 2x4 was $1750. Total length of railing is about 81'. Add you accessories cost it will give you an idea.

I've seen several interesting ideas for railing from pictures posted here, I just like this the best.

Good luck with your project, I've seen some real art work done by DIYer and pros here.

Hey nelson again a nice job. I have probably a little longer, depending on whether I want to rail the back deck, which is pretty close to the ground. The front and back has to be done, as it is off the ground a bit. It looks pretty simple. check out these pics, I started last fall, and just finished this week.

Here is a link that might be useful: deck progression

Bob: You have a great view to go with such a nice deck. I didn't want to try any curves, so I made sure my design was staright forward. I'm sure the pros here can give you a lot more tips on these curved railing. Have fun. It's really a labor of love, unless you are pressed for time like I am.

The best way to curve railings and such is to glue laminations in the radius you need. See attachment

Here is a link that might be useful: