Soo Confused about deck materials!!
mpadronmd
12 years ago
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dennisgli
12 years agompadronmd
12 years agoRelated Discussions
Deck material for a mountain home with lots of sun AND snow!
Comments (9)shinobu, we live in south lake tahoe, just completed a deck around 2 sides of our house. we replaced a redwood deck and then some, tore down substructure and started from the ground up. we researched all the usual suspects. we decided against trex for several reasons. several friends used trex, and within a couple of years had to replace decking, got involved in warrante issues, but trex eventually offered to replace material only. redwood was considered briefly,but decided against because existing was redwood and was only 15 years old. we decided to go with ipe, bought it in sacramento at berco redwood, paid 2.20 lf. they delivered. I built it myself, finished in october,berco replaced several sticks, probably my fault because wood sat outside for a while.I am waiting for warm weather to sand and seal,but it came out beautiful.we surface screwed, cleaned the snow off all winter. we plan to use tps 116 and see how much work it will be to maintain, if too much we will let it go to silver.part of the back deck is about a foot off the ground, good drainage underneath, runoff from the roof when snow melts not a problem. no mold, no cupping. bottom line epi a good choice. If your in the area, your welcome to come take a look at it. A bit of a learning curve, but it worked out well. one thing though, I originally got some bids from local contractors, most never heard of ipe, and the ones that did charged double the price to install....See MoreHelp Me Select Deck Materials
Comments (4)When I was building my deck I narrowed down to TimberTech XLM and CorrectDeck CX. Similar products - I liked the look of the CorrectDeck a little better but I ended up going with the TimberTech because a local lumber yard stocked it at a reasonable price. It looks like CorrectDeck has been bought by GAF and CX is now DuraLife Siesta - so you might want to check that as an alternative....See MoreBuilding new Ipe deck. Clips or no clips? (I'm so confused!)
Comments (9)Hi Oakrun, Yes, it is a daunting process. In fairness to all the homeowners here, (and respect to the pro deck builders who give so much help), we homeowners have pretty much one shot at the deck. In other words, we are not builders, and we are not Martha Stewart types, so we have to live with our decisions, warts and all. But on the other hand, we can afford to take a chance on something new. It will not wreck our livelyhood. I have nearly finished my 5/4" Ipe deck, 12' X 30'. After much thought, I went with the hidden fasteners - Tiger Claw TC-G http://www.deckfastener.com/products_tcg.asp They look great! Time will tell if they work. One difference between these clips and many of the old ones is that these are solid stainless, not fiberglass. To get these fasteners to bend would take quite a bit of force. I put one in a bench vise and hit it with a hammer. It didn't bend. One definite advantage of this system (assuming the boards don't lift) over face screwing, is the whole deck is "floating" on the pressure treated frame. The ipe boards are free to expand and contract slightly. In the long term, this may minimize end checking. Also, your air circulation under the deck seems optimal. (I have the same situation). I suspect that many installs of hidden fasteners don't have good air circulation. That may contribute to failure. Installation notes: 1) I used a biscuit joiner to slot the boards where the fasterers attach. It takes time, but I think it's a better job that having the boards slotted along the full length. 2) For butt joints, definitely ease the edges with an 1/8" radius. I think that's a John Hyatt trick. Looks great!! 3) I had to ease the backs of the ipe boards with a 1/4" radius router bit where the fastener attached. (the ipe comes with a 1/8" radius edge, not enough for correct installation) 4) most of the SS screws for this are # 8. If you are screwing into another hardwood (Ipe, Garapa, etc) I think the correct drill size is 9/64" . I broke a screw very early using the recommended 8/64" Here is a pic of a few weeks ago (I am doing most of this myself):...See MoreNeed help, confused and unsure about landscape design.
Comments (6)While as with all trees results are going to vary with site conditions Betula nigra is genetically a full sized tree - I think it is too large growing for the planting sites you are showing here. For example Seattle has one with an average crown spread of more than 62' (measured ~2005), with the largest known examples (elsewhere) being on the order of 120' tall with trunks about 5' thick. You do want something of some size to match the scale of the house but the magnolia will get big enough to do that if it does well. If it is not a superior named cultivar with a tall habit, fully evergreen foliage presentation (more than one example of these has been on the general market in recent years) I would replace it with one, as they are much more attractive than the shrubby, nearly deciduous version that drops all but one or a few leaves here and there. Another thing I would like to point out is that your house has a geometrically symmetric facade which means that this is one instance where a formal planting with matching pairs and shearing etc. is actually what is called for. A pattern mirroring the design of the front of the house on the ground in front of it and consisting of plants and other natural materials like stonework is what will best serve to integrate your house with the large lawn, which introduces a pastoral feeling. It would also be better to have the plantings extend out from the house more - and perhaps concentrate around the building less - even if the facade was not geometric....See Moredennisgli
12 years agojohn_hyatt
12 years agojohn_hyatt
12 years agompadronmd
12 years agoaidan_m
12 years agompadronmd
12 years ago
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