waterdamage what is your location? these are my minimum specs for a new HP system. both outside and inside units should be replaced to have a properly matched system. 15 SEER, 12.5+ EER, 9 HSPF best matching VS air handler full BTUs in both cooling and heating for your rated size R-410a refrigerant(same as Puron) scroll compressor preferred electronic demand defrost preferred thermostat with "dehumidify on demand" feature staged backup heat strips new and correctly sized refrigerant lineset you want a thorough inspection of your ductwork system. size, overall condition, supply and return lines, insulation qualities, leak test, etc. any hot/cold spot issues in your home should be addressed. I would only use authorized dealers for the various brands that provide quotes. see mfg websites. I would look at Trane/AmStd,Rheem/Rudd,Carrier/Bryant. I would not purchase a new HP system that did not have electronic demand defrost. IMO Good Luck!

pump Horsepower is a complicated issue. It is dependent on total length of plumbing runs, number and type of bends, diameter of pipe and desire flow rate. Generally should go off the plate on the existing motor. There are two numbers that matter: Horsepower(HP) and service factor(SF). New motor should have same value of HP x SF as old or slightly higher. If want slower flow rate (with potentially longer run time) then raise SF and cut HP. Raising SF is important as that means motor can take strain of running under the load that would normally require a higher HP. Failure to get adequate combo is likely to result in motor burning out prematurely. Of course, new motor should run at same voltage (110 or 220) as existing or make appropriate changes. Also, if increasing amperage, make sure wire can handle it(unlikely since newer motors are much more efficient than older ones)

tigerdunes, thanks for responding. We are located about 35 miles east of Pittsburgh, PA. All the systems are 2.5 ton. On quote 3, the only model numbers mentioned in the quote are what I wrote down. I think the FB4CNF036L00 is the air handler. No specific model of thermostat is listed for 1, but we discussed the XL950, XL850 and XL 824. 2. has no model # but says Infinity wi-fi touchscreen thermostat. 3. just says programmable thermostat. dovetonsils, thank you also. I tried looking on the Bryant website as well and could not find the model that was quoted. Maybe he's trying to sell me an old unit? I'll have to check on that.

"The two contractors below came up with a 2.5 size but heat pumps only come in whole sizes. Am I over sizing the unit if I go with the 3 ton heat pump?" The heat pumps you were quoted are 2-stage models. All 2-stage heat pumps come in whole ton sizes. You would have to get a single stage heat pump in order to get the 2.5 ton size. I am in central NJ so my climate is very similar to yours. Did you review the load calculations? Is the 1800 sq. feet all on the second floor below attic space? Given attic poor insulation (R19 or less?), the 2.5 ton may be slightly under sized. In my opinion I don't think a 2-stage 3 ton heat pump is over sized. We would have to look at the data sheet, but most likely the lower stage will be less than 2.5 tons. It is difficult to comment on the price because of the required duct work. It sounds there is a lot of labor involved in the new duct work and attic installation. Contractors don't like to break out line item cost. Getting one price is very common. You have gotten 8 bids, so you compare prices. You did the right thing by rejecting people who don't even go into the attic. The answer you other questions, I think 2-stage equipment is worth the extra money. It is going to do a better job of lowering the humidity in the summer. It should also be quieter when running on the low stage while you are sleeping. I think suspending the air handler from the rafters is the best way to minimize noise. I don't have experience with attic installed equipment, but it seems logical you would cut down the vibration from the ceiling. You want R8 insulated ducts in the attic. The main duct should be metal and all joints should have mastic. The flexible ducts should have no kinks. If it looks bad to your eye then it is probably bad. You are doing the right thing by investing in improved duct work. I like Carrier over Lennox. You also want a 2-stage thermostat. Find out the model number and make sure it is in the quote.