Just wanted to report back success here. I did order an EL1499ICA online, although what was shipped was an EL1499ICA-L, noted only on the mfr site as an economy version - but looked dimensionally similar to the original specs. I scheduled to have the electrician do it, less about the electrical than worrying about traversing 20' of attic and accidentally stepping through the ceiling drywall somewhere. Was very simple 10 minutes for the electrician to swap out the entire housing. Before he came, I did look at the housing and there is no way to remove the rectangular sealed box to just replace the transformer - it's basically riveted shut. He was the original electrician from the remodel - said 1 in a 100 of these fails, no good reason... I asked about what happens if one of the downstairs transformers fails, given no attic. He did confirm he could also access from the can itself via the ceiling, as brickeyee said, but it just takes more time and effort that way. I did see that removing three screws allows the can to drop out, although it did seem quite a pain to try to unscrew the old transformer from the housing blind (when your hand and screwdriver have reached into the opening). Would be a very challenging DIY attempt. Replacement housing works great, and learned a few things as a general DIY-er. Thanks, esp brickeyee, for the advice.

fluorescent bulbs under cabinets will be T4 or T5 ; these are long and thin -- think of light sticks, not round / spot / pucks. I gave you search terms. I'm sure you will find out stuff. All bulbs generate Some_Heat; the wattage is a key indicator of heat. Xenons are in the same family as halogens and old-fashioned incandescents (the bulbs we had in the 20th century), which is not efficient technology in terms of producing light (as opposed to heat). Searching, I read that xenons are only 10% cooler compared to regular halogens. That is still Hot. So incandescents, all types including xenon-halogen, make more heat than the other means of producing light (fluorescents and LED's). Fluorescents give more lumen (light) and less heat than the incandescent family (xenons, halogens). Fluorescents come in the range of 6 watts to 25 watts; that is fewer watts than the incandescent family needs. Incandescents use more watts to match the lumen, and the extra electricity goes into heat production. They are a heater and a light. LED's come in the range of a fraction of a watt. LED's are lowest wattage but they are so weak they don't produce much lumen (light). So they are good for accent lighting. If you buy large numbers you will get more light. you would have to install hundreds of them, to match the 1000+ lumen output of fluo or incandescent. Has anyone out there installed a hundred LED's under a cabinet? HTH -david

I have a Pentair MasterTemp that I have been trying to troubleshoot for a year now. It calls for heat, heat starts for maybe 5-10 seconds, then stops, temp raises rapidly to 124 then slowly back down to 75 and cycles again doing the same thing over and over again. So far I have replaced the thermal regulator, igniter, thermistor and the bypass valve in the manifold. Today, I did a bunch of troubleshooting. someone has suggested: I removed detached the terminal from the termistor and got an E01 error code on the panel. I connected my old termistor and got a reading of 85 degrees. When I hold it, the temp slowly went up to 90. I then reconnected the terminal on the new terminstor and got 75 (I guess that's the water temp). When problem started happening last early last year, one of the thing I did was replaced a broken Jandy check valve between the heater and chlorinator. I also noticed that the flap wasn't opening even at 3450rpm and 20-25psi. Although, there's strong water coming out of the 2 return lines. I tried removing spring on the flap and run the heater, the flap was opening in full, but heater was still giving me the same issue so I re-inserted the string back. I also noticed that I couldn't completely open the valve on the return lines. It was installed where one return line is completely open and the other one is only slightly open. So, I opened the 3-port valve and adjusted it where the 2 return lines are fully open. I run the heater and this time it did something different. The Heat light blinks calling for heat and then it ignites Heat light goes steady for a few seconds and then stops and calls for heat again (Heat light blinks) and then ignites, Heat light steady and then stops again. It kept doing this several times and then sometimes the temp will start counting up rapidly and slowly counts down to the current temp and cycles again. Note: when the opened the manifold last winter to replace the bypass, the manifold and the heat coils have no signs of scales. I only found 1 small stone stuck inside where the bypass is. So I thought that was causing the problem. In case there is blockage in the heat exchanger, how do I fix that? Thanks for your advise. Here are the video links. 1st one is the initial issue. The 2nd is after modified the 3-port valve to the return lines. https://youtu.be/OaYfnEbjAFU https://youtu.be/OLxQI4lA1eg

Just my two cents, on heat transfer in a dynamic environment. I.e. fluid as opposed to a solid block of anything. There is a lot of opposing theory here. First lets try and apples and apples it. If the surface area and thermal dynamic properties of the heat exchanger are the same i.e. one is aluminum a one is copper. And the only variable is the speed at which the water flows through the pipe. You first have to understand the effects of laminar flow on the xsfer of heat (energy) from the walls of the heat exchanger to the fluid in the center of the pipe. Due to the increase of friction at the edges of the water Colum inside the pipe , the water in the center of the pipe flows faster, with me so far? The statement "heat xsfer is greatest when the deference between the bodies is greatest" is in a way correct when you look at percentage of transfer. What you fail to take into account is that the transfer works both ways. At the same time you are heating the water , you are cooling the pipe. Thus requiring more energy to heat the pipe. Since the energy to heat the pipe is limited i.e. the amperage of your wiring in a heat pump or flow of gas in a furnace, You must stick to real world. Another fact is heat transfer has momentum. Once you pass a point of the curve you see a ramping effect called thermal momentum. Soooo if the gauge is how fast you raise a body of water outside the exchanger i.e. a pool or spa the question is simple the longer a molecule is in proximity to a heat source the more energy it will adsorb. So the two options are 1. to run that "piece" of water quickly through the exchanger so it can deposit its heat into the body of water and go back and get more? Or , 2. to allow that "piece" of water more time in the exchanger to gather more energy to deposit it in to the water. The end result is the same, Hot. The deference is the curve. We use this formula every day in controlling chemical reactions through temperature. The slower moving fluid reaches the steeper part of the curve faster, thus gaining Thermal momentum fasterÂ.. ending up with the body of water reaching a desired temperature faster. DamÂ.. I need a beer!