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Porches & Decks

IPE Rail Posts and Anchor Seal

16 years ago

I have a few questions about my rail posts. I have 4x4 IPE Posts I am going to use for my railing. I plan on notching the posts, then on the piece that hangs down onto the joists and rim board I wanted to cut a 45 to add some character. I am also planning to route out a belt line a fewinches from the top for character.

Here are my questions.

1. For the notch, I was planning on just cutting a notch about 1 3/4" x say 7" or 8". That way I would be bolting through 1 3/4" of material, and there would be 1 3/4" material sitting on the deck. Is this sufficient? I can make the notch 1 1/2" and have 2" to bolt through, but aesthetically that may not be as nice.

2. On the 45 cut and the routed edge, do I need to anchor seal that? What about the notch?

Thanks...Mike

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Comments (3)

brooklyndecks
16 years ago
I used to do my rail posts exactly like that (without the routed detail)...only I used knotty cedar. After a few years, I changed. Now, I plant the posts within the substructure, and block them in from every direction. So tight, so strong...even though they are still knotty cedar. I am confident in them.

but that wasn't your question...that would work fine with Ipe posts...if you do a good install. If you can pull off the half lap cut on Ipe, then you can do the rest. It'll be strong.

Don't anchorseal!!! It'll be an ugly mess, and won't stop the 4x4s from doing what they want to do anyway...check/split.

steve
john_hyatt
16 years ago
It makes for a much stronger post to place them inside the frame, I also usta put them outside with a cut out and bolt them in but that was years ago.

I also agree with Steve,anchorseal is a waste of time and money. J.
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Yes. I'll post a few tonight if I get a chance... Definately get the Anchor Seal wood sealant. This stuff will crack a day or so after you cut it. Otherwise if you order from East Teak try and get all 16' stock, it was easier to work with and straighter than the 12' stuff which was much more dense. I don't have a finish on it yet but it sure looked pretty being all wet the other day after a rain...
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that's one of the reasons that I don't use anchorseal. You can sand it off the top, but it'll probably come back from the ends (unless you sand them too). and if you spot sand, you'll notice that when you apply your finish. so, what i'm saying is that I don't have a solution to a problem that I avoid. If it helps, after a couple years of weathering, it'll stop happening. I know because I have a small sample deck outside in the sun for a few years. the anchorsealed boards look the same as the non sealed ones. steve
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Thanks for the prompt reply and advice. The reason I applied an end seal is because it is the one recommendation that virtually all ipe "installation guides" agree on (to prevent end checking). John, are you saying that end sealing is bad, unnecessary, or only that Anchorseal is the wrong product? These walkways are, in places, very close to the ground and we are in the Puget Sound (read RAINY) area. I was concerned with moisture absorption on the bottom side, drying on the top side, leading to cupping. This, as well as various ipe installation recommendations (elsewhere), was the reason for prefinishing. However, I now see the obvious benefit of leaving the finishing of the tops until last. Steve and John: are you saying that prefinishing the sides and bottoms is bad or simply unnecessary, even in very wet conditions? Please don't get me wrong. I have no interest in doing anything I don't need to do. On the other hand, I'm doing the work for myself and don't mind doing a little extra if there is a tangible benefit or additional "insurance". What I want to avoid is doing the WRONG thing and, clearly, prefinishing the tops of the boards was the wrong thing to do. I should also mention that I probably overreacted to the initial results. I've found that the few scratches are easily removed and the boards have all cleaned up nicely. Bottom line: I'll continue using ipe on the other two decks and will be tickled to death if I don't have to bother with end sealing and prefinishing the bottom & sides of the boards. Thanks again for your help. -Gary
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Since I wrapped the posts w/azek, I actually left the wrap proud by 1" on top so that I could glue a block onto the back of Ipe cap. The block would drop inside the azek wrap on top of the salt post. I then would attach the cap by shooting a nail into the block through the azek. Thus no fasheners thru the top of the cap (potential weak point).By laminating the cap w/ the block did I stablize the cap or stress the cap. And why not anchorseal the whole thing since it already has so much on it? Would the AS stabilize it and would the rich color remain if the Anchorseal was renewed? Scott
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hhcibtpaun
Original Author
16 years ago
I contemplated putting them on the inside, but opted not too. There were some interference issues and the like. After the fact I figured out how to get around some of the issues. Nevertheless, I am ok with hanging them off the side. Although, I did contemplate pulling off a few of my boards to put the posts on the inside. One of the issues was the railing would be inset about 3 1/2" from the edge of the deck (after trim, etc, and I didn't want that...

I think pulling through an 1 3/4 of ipe with two half inch bolts should work out.

I will avoid the anchor seal for the posts.

Thanks again for all the advice.

If you are interested, here is the status of my deck so far:

http://www.restomodforums.com/deck

Thanks...Mike

Here is a link that might be useful: IPE Deck so Far

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