###Remove your venus' flytrap out of that black dirt as soon as possible. Regular dirt contains too much salts and crap you do not want to know about. A terrarium is not needed to grow these plants. Venus' flytraps grow better in windowsills or outside in a sunny location. 1)Firstly, Venus' flytraps live in Sandy/Peaty poor nutrient free soils in the wild in the Carolinas. They prefer and thrive well in soils like Sphagnum Moss, Peatmoss +Perlite, or just peat moss itself(not regular potting soil) So go back to Walmart and buy a Bag of "Sphagnum peat moss" and a bag of "perlite." After you do, mix 50% peat moss, and 50% perlite. Wet the Media, and make sure that is completely moist first.. then you can repot your new plant back to its new sanitary home. 2)Watering, Watering can be simply done by using a tray method. if you have some type of small saucer, you can use that. fill in your saucer with clean water(reverse osmosis, or clean rain water, or bottled sodium free water)After you filled in your Water tray(or Saucer) you can summerge your potted plant. That way, the new moist soil will help your plant's new roots to grow. it will take about a week or two to see your plant improving. never allow the compoist to dry out. Water your plant using the tray method daily.. 3)Sunlight, Venus flytraps grow in full sunlight in the wild. They love growing outdoors in the sun. you can give your new plant atleast 4-6 hours of full sunlight for vigorous growth. when you grow it outdoors. it will feed it self. During the summer months, venus' flytraps need atleast 4-6 hours of direct sunlight in order for vigorous growth. If you grow your plant in a shade spot, it will look distorted , pale and sickly.. so i recommend you to grow it outdoors or in a sunny windowsill.. 4)Dormancy, Venus' flytraps indeed need their dormancy period. they enjoy chilly winters 40 degrees and under. They experience their dormancy period From Late October to early March. If you still have your plant, what you can do this winter is simply; put your potted plant inside a ziplock bag, and place your plant(inside the ziplock bag) inside the fridge atleast for 3-4 months(Later October through early february) that's the only trick you can do for them in order for them to face dormancy(unless you live somewhere where it's really cold in the winters,other wise, you can leave your plant outside all year round. but when the plant experiences dormancy, don't water it as much, leave the plant's soil bearly moist. *i hope this helps, So.. firstly, go back to walmart, buy new Sphagnum Peat moss(Shultz or Lambert) and some perlite. Mix and wet the media, then repot your innocent venus' flytrap into its new home. *After you repot it, it is best to acclimate it under lights or in a bright indirect location for atleast 1-2 weeks, after acclimating it to your surroundings, you can start growing it outside, or in a windowsill.. Water daily using the tray method.. and give it its required dormancy period every year.. i surely hope this helps you FireThorn.. if you fail attempting, do not give up.. growing these magnificent plants is a joy anyone would love to posses.. these plants are very easy to grow once you get the hang of it.. Good luck to your new venus' flytrap.

That aluminum-angle-in-the-slot trick is truly truly appreciated. I like it! There is one thing I haven't seen anyone mention and that is the box clearance problem only exists in the door path, not necessarily in the pocket beyond the opening stop. In other words, the door may not sweep the entire pocket. Also, are ceiling outlets right at the pocket's top edge a reasonable solution for power and cable? Thirdly, and this may be dumb, but why the need to have everything new-work flush if the OP is just going to hang one of those massive (and perhaps ugly) television screens in front of all the sockets/boxes?

I grew up with people calling 2 "a couple", 3 "a few" and 4 or more "several". So since my pocket door wall is 2" thicker than my others, that's "a couple", I was willing to say "a few", but thought any contractor who would tell OP "several" was misleading - I don't think she'd miss 2-3" out of the kitchen, but "several" (how many? 5"?) might cause problems. I agreed that adding cabinet support on the kitchen side might necessitate "several" inches of studs on that side of the pocket frame. Since Casey pointed out they don't make rectangular pancake boxes, and I don't think you want to pad the wall on the DR side too (might end up 8" thick), I'd see if the switch can be positioned on the other side of the door, since I do think you're going to end up ripping out the DR wall as well as the kitchen. The door wall in my powder room might just be 2" thicker for the sconce. I think they used a regular box, not a pancake one. I'll have to take a better look (and measure the jambs in the master bath, esp. the wall that has a GFCI on it - bet that one's 6.5", don't know about the other 2). We have Johnson hardware. Thanks brickeye for the tip about the guides - I did notice a line on 1 side of the PR door (though I haven't finished that door yet - and it has a nasty scratch higher up where it contacted something in the wall 1 time when it fell off the track). The other doors haven't gotten any use since the master bath isn't finished. We may end up ripping out walls to lower tracks any way, so we can groove the doors and put in angle then.

Hello, everyone Thanks for all of the helpful replies. They gives me a lot to think about and investigate further. brickeyee: I hadnt thought about whether it could be a load bearing wall. I dont think it is, but I confess that Im not sure how to tell. Its useful to know that even the best case scenario would require some repair to the dining room wall. Its also incredibly helpful to know that the wall wouldnt necessarily have to get thicker. I dont know if I can spare even a few inches in that direction, and still fit in the sink, dishwasher, and double ovens without running into the chimney. It occurs to me now that the only cupboards that were planned for the area where the doors pocket would be those right above the fridge. Maybe they can simply build a cabinet around the fridge with the cabinets on toplike a piece of furnitureso the cabinets wouldnt need to be supported by the wall? Or maybe I could just forego the cabinet above the fridge. As for the electrical, I suppose it could be moved to the other side of the door. florantha: Your solution sounds very creative. Id love to find a way to steal a little bit more space for the kitchenand I wouldnt mind a niche for artwork; that sounds really cool. Unfortunately, the dining room is already rather long and narrow, and that would make it even narrowerand would narrow the entrance from the dining room into the living room. So, the only way to steal space would be to steal it from the kitchen (which probably creates problems for the kitchen layout). crabcakes: Thanks so much for the pics! Youve helped me understand how the pocket doors are constructed and set into the wall. I also hadnt realized that they would leave the wall so weak (just drywall that one can push in). I just went and pushed the wall where we have our existing pocket door and it doesnt give or move at all. Maybe the builders reinforced the wall somehow, because I cant tell the difference between that portion of the wall and the rest of the wall. It seems just as sturdy. BTW, I cant help but ask, did you rip out your pocket doors because they didnt work very well? Ive had more than one person tell me that pocket doors are "nothing but trouble" Oh, and I dont think I can do bypass doors because the doorway is very narrowand if I understand bypass doors, they leave half the doorway coveredright? ashebooks: How interesting that you would suggest a butlers door. Thats exactly what we have right now (though I had no idea what it was called). The problem with our butlers door is that (a) it no longer swings both ways (it gets stuck if one tries to push it toward the dining room), (b) it is attached at the bottom to a terrazzo floor and the screws keep coming out of the hinge (every time one swings the door it seems to loosen the screws), and (c) when one opens the door into the kitchen the door stands in front of the light switches for the kitchen so one has to either close the door or reach around it in order to turn on the lights! Given all of these problems (and the fact that Id never seen butlers doors for sale, plus our pocket door on the other side of the room works so well), I figured that pocket doors were the way to go. Maybe I should start looking into replacing the butlers door and relocating the light switches somehow instead.