Until I read this, I was thinking I wanted to use ipe material for deck construction, but if it's a maintenance nightmare like that, I'll use something else. What's the point of using this stuff if it's so hard to take care of?

rbkank... it's like any other wood.. if you want to have the exotic finish, you got to hit it now and then.
You don't have to do anything with ipe.. if you want, just put it down, stain it once... then let it gray and leave it alone for your entire life.

My post was hijacked!!!

I sanded lightly the whole deck and it looks good, but I am also considering the acetone treatment before I break-out on the TWP 116. I have seen a few posting regarding the acetone, but no one has said what their long term results were? I know some forum members are against sanding ipe due to the dust. WouldnÂt acetone help remove it? Also would it be best to apply the finish right after the acetone or wash the deck again? Please comment.

I would wask first. Sodium percarb is going to help liberate the sanding dust that is one the deck. If you decide to go the acetone route, the deck should be sealed immidiately. The acetone will act to emulsify the natural resins in the wood and will bond with the sealer when those resins resolidify. I do not do this step professionally on every ipe deck but have started offering it to customers as an option. The problem is, I don't have enough decks out there with this type of prep to tell if it increases sealer life long term.

Ken mon man!!! are you a chemist or did you stay at a holiday inn express last night!! LOL...(just some kind ribbin)...being a chemist and having 4+ years of pulp and paper science under my belt just wanted to clarify the acetone will indeed dissolve not emulsify the natural wood resins which are lipophilic (fat loving) extractives composed mainly of fatty acids, resin acids, sterols, steryl esters and triglycerides. So most of the surface resins will be completely removed with your rag,towel, or mop and what remains on the surface (acetone and residual resin) will have the acetone evaporate well before you get back to that area to coat with TWP or the like....thus the resins will return to their initial solid or semi-solid state....I think I know what you were trying to say but a little off in the actual chemistry...The other thing that will happen is that if a copious amount of acetone is used the resins will be solublized and penetrate further into the wood....effectively allowing more exposed "raw" wood for the coating to bind to. Acetone WILL dry out the wood as it is miscible(mixes) with water and will allow water to evaporate (azeotrope) at a lower temperature...it is often used in wood preservation where the wood is soaked 3+ times in acetone to remove ALL water and then dipped in a acetone/rosin mix.....then the acetone evaporates and leaves a rosin caoting protecting the wood....

Acetone is also frequently used in the pulp and paper mills to extract these types of wood resins to improve the strength of the paper products we use...

so I don't think it matters about sealing immediately after acetone wash....but it may help to do the acetone rinse last to help with the drying process you require after the RAD treatment (1-2 day of warm/hot weather to get back to 12%?? moisture)...the acetones removal of water will be immediate and may speed the drying process as well as removing any residual oxalic acid

Thanks sweet. I love reading and digesting new (real) science. I am always on the look out for modernizing and keeping current the best possible prep work for deck sealing. The process is labor intensive and adds yet a third step to prep. I suppose the jury will remain out as to whether performing this step will help to increase longevity in what I consider an art in its infancy.. sealing an ipe deck properly. It may be sheer economy of scale that prevents this from ever becoming a mainstream technique.

Sweet, I would like to keep RAD Systems ahead of the competition and offer customers state of the art woodcare and products. If you could possibly make time in your schedule for a phone discussion of your experience, I would surely make time in mine to discuss what I have experienced both in the field and in the lab. If acetone is the missing link in the ipe sealing equation we will go down in history ;-)

I had never thought of speeding the evaporation process with the use of a solvent.. hmmmmm. If you are interested in chatting, please email me.

Ken,

love to chat with ya!...This week is pretty busy at work AND home using the RAD system (just finshed step #1 today! boy are my arms tired from scrubbing- no pressure washer)....getting ready to do step #2 this Thursday and hopefully TWP #516 on Saturday.....so looks like next week at the earliest.....but I'll email you....should I use the customer service email to email you my phone and email addy???
Thanks

That would be fine. Was you deck very gray or did you have remnants of old sealer? I guess I am so used to using a washer, I cannot fathom having to brush. You should really only have to agitate the surface with a medium bristle brush for good results. When we talk I will get your feelings and input. Thanks, Sweet.

For future readers considering TWP 116 (or it's low VOC cousing TWP 516)....

Be forewarned.... TWP116 and TWP516 (both named rustic oak) really look like redwood... not oak. Definitely red.

Unfortunately I wanted brown. Now I have 2 unused 5 gallon containers of TWP 116 (I'm in the Chicago suburbs).

Anyone interested in buying it from me (click on my user name in this post and then click "send me an email").

If I could do it over on my Ipe deck, I'd use TWP 120 Pecan.

Jim