Here's what you need to do. Send me your name and address and I'll send you a check for $600 for just 330 sqft of it...that's all I need for a deck. Seriously, keep it protected from the weather as you have done. Put it in the house when the time comes but it likely won't be climatized by the time you are laying it. The flooring contractor should test it and the subfloor with a moisture meter before installation. The moisture should be b/t 7% & 16% I believe and the flooring and subfloor s/b within 4% of one another. I just went through this using a different type wood and everything turned out fine. Some of mine had been in storage for several years. Seriously though, what type of auction did you find this at? I would love to use cumaru on our covered deck but I have only been able to find this in a good grade at $5+/sqft. What grade is yours?

I have installed a wide variety of rainscreens including Ipe and Cumaru and we install and distibute a raincreen system that works very well. Check out the link to see some completed projects with the rainscreen system. Regarding the use of decking, I would not recommend using decking for the rainscreen for the following reasons: 1. If you want concealed fastening, you will need to have pregrooved or pockets in the top edge of the board to receive the clips. The pocket can hold water which could freeze in the winter and cause the board to crack. 2. Most of the boards will be crowned and it will be very difficult to get consistant reveals. The use of a modified bow wrench can help, but it won't look perfect. 3. There is not a drip point on the boards which will result in uneven weathering if the material is to be left un-oiled. 4. Be very careful if you want to have mitered corners. They will open up on you and a rainscreen system like ours that allows the boards to float will result in better looking miters. The taller the board is, the more dimensionally unstable it is. Thus, 1x4 looks the best with mitered corners, then 1x6. I would not recommend mitering any 1x material taller than 1x6 without increasing the thickness of the material--which will increase the material cost dramatically as 2x hardwood $$$. I would not recommend face fastening the boards as this will restrict the movement and contribute to cupping in the boards. Also, you will get streaking along the lines of the fasteners over time as the wood weathers. 304 Stainless Steel is a must if you choose exposed fasteners and again, don't miter corners. For your design it would look better if you cut the end square and alternate which board extends to the corner. Hope that helps. Feel free to email me for more info. It looks like a great project. I have also installed HD Fibercement and am currently isntalling 4000 sq ft of hardi-panel on a house if you need info on that portion of the project. Jon Stephen Green Facade Systems ph. 773-931-4517 email: specialtyexteriors@gmail.com Here is a link that might be useful: green facade systems photo gallery

I built a fairly large deck several years ago in Cumaru. Do not bother "finishing" all sides - waste of time. I tried TWP 500 for two years (bad results - faded after about a month). Talked to TWP folks and they told me the 500 series would not work on Cumaru (or IPE). That the 100 series was the way to go. Used that for one year with same results. Faded very quickly. This year I tried Penofin. Much better results. My only complaint is the mold. I have a couple spots, nothing to bad. So I guess you choose your evil. Mold spots or fading. There does not appear to be a magic bullet.

I forgot to mention that this flooring would be installed over a subfloor