Also be sure your pool is properly bonded. The cell gets installed after the heater. A 35 to 40,000 gallon pool dictates a cell sized for up to 60,000 gallons which means either the Pentair or Auto Pilot. As said earlier, both are fine units. The Pentair is easier to winterize since it doesn't require a manifold like the Auto Pilot. The reason for going slightly over sized is to leave some chlorine generating head room for high temps and heavy usage. More cell plate surface area can help some in the longevity of the cell's life. That's not to say if they made a cell for a 100K gallon pool (no one makes a single cell for residential pools that big, btw) would be beneficial as it would be difficult to control the output to the needed level. Going one size up, I have found, works well and is cost effective. There is no conversion. It's still a chlorine pool. The difference is simply how the chlorine is getting in the pool and byproducts. It will change the way your pH is kept in check. 3" tabs tend to cause the pH to drop and the stabilizer to increase. Cal-Hypo adds calcium. Salt cells tend to raise the pH. Check the salt cells and BBB sections at troublefreepools.com to be be prepared and see how to spend less at the pool store for chems. Scott Scott

"Having to add chlorine is not a problem for me but I do want that no-chlorine feel that a SWG is supposed to provide." You may already know this, but in case you don't- with an SWG there is still chlorine in the pool. The SWG generates the chlorine from the salt in the pool. That "chlorine smell" that most people complain about is actually not chlorine, it's caused by the pool being out of balance. But there are other benefits to SWG. Some people like the smooth skin and silky hair feeling they get from SWG, honestly I couldn't feel that when we switched ours though. The only difference I could tell on ours is that the water tastes a little salty and it doesn't burn my eyes like the conventional tri-chlor system did. But maintenance is sooooo much easier! We just toss some acid in once a week and add CYA & salt about every 6 months. Things are much, much easier to keep balanced. We definitely love the SWG!

To Scott (poolguynj): Thanks for the advice. I'm interpreting what you are saying to mean that I'll have to have the Intelliflo kick up from 15 GPM to 30 GPM during the time that the SWG is active (right now that's about six hours a day). I'll just set a timed Feature to coincide with the timer that the SWG is on. Similarly, you're recommending that the rate be increased to 30 GPM when I want the pool or spa to be heated. I didn't quite understand the statement that "Running at 30 GPM will allow the flow to be reduced at the result of increased resistance resulting from the filter getting dirty" so if you can clarify that for me, that would be great. To Vince (vincel): I'm probably the wrong person to ask about set-ups. Before the Intelliflo, I had a timer that turned on the old WhisperFlo pump and the SWG at the same time, running both for about six hours a day. The heater was always on a separate circuit and when I wanted heat, I simply threw a switch to either run the heater to pool temp (85) or spa temp (100) and if it was outside of the six hour period when the pump would normally be active, I threw a separate switch to send juice to the pump that would bypass the timer. Both switches were conveniently located outside of the equipment box so it was no big deal. Now the timer only impacts the SWG. The Intelliflo is hot 24/7 but the internal controls allow me to set the times its running (it's running around the clock though in order to take advantage of the lower energy costs for slow speed operation). When I want to run the heater, I just throw one switch now. Personally, I don't want the heater to be automated because I would rather have direct control over the occasional times I need it. Does that help? Thanks! Nick

We also have a swg, and only shock the pool if the chlorine level indicates. I usually test my water a couple of times a week, and this season I have had to 'shock' it a few times. The troublefreepool.com people recommended good old household bleach for shocking, and it works great, and is less expensive than the shock sold in pool stores. I believe you are correct about the 'superchlorinate' feature - it allows for a gradual rise in chlorine.