Thanks Steve, the more I think about it I think I would like the look of the two different woods. I read up on the plugging process and it really doesn't sound all that bad, just time consuming. My deck won't be all that large (16' x 15'), so that does sound like the way to go vs the hidden fasteners. Another question, if my joists are 16" OC and plan on plugging, can I use 1x6 Ipe or should I still use 5/4x6? The deck will about about 30" - 34" off the ground if that matters at all. Thanks again, --eric

We're in the North Bay (SF Bay Area), so I am incredibly disappointed that the much touted TWP is not an option. Do you do a wet-on-wet application of the Penofin? Ideally I'd love the finish to last a couple of years. Any way to keep the ipe looking great for that long?? I've since moved from the ipe posts to a black powder-coated aluminum, by Feeney (Design Rail). I was surprised by how pricey they are (isn't everything?), but I think it will be a clean, contemporary look. I was a little afraid that the wooden posts would render a bit more of a rustic feel than I ideally was hoping for. And, yes, we'll be doing an ipe cap. My neighbors stairs ARE protected from the sun. However, our deck is pretty much in full sun...alternating with full fog. So, Penofin... What color do you recommend? And, do you put it on immediately after installation or do you let the deck "weather" a bit? And other prep work after installation before staining?? Many, many thanks!!!!

When I hear of someone using cedar for railing, I feel I must tell them of my experience.18 years ago the popular belief( at least at my lumberyard) was that cedar was low maintainence and lasts forever. So I sided, trimmed, railed and decked w/ cedar( white cedarsiding, red cedar everywhere else). It was beautiful afterward. We stained w/cabots, used sikins on the deck. After 5 years we noticed, especially the deck and rail, that everywhere cedar touched cedar( the butt joint at the post/ rail and post /deck) it was getting soft. We hadn't sealed the end grain before installation nor did we caulk each joint. By year 12 the railings fell off and the posts and decking boards rotted along each edge ( we didn't space the deck boards enough, thinking they would shrink- they might have even expanded). A word to the wise, wait until a stretch of dry weather and silicone caulk those joints. Fine Homebuilding Magazine recognized this problem and published an article a few years after we built and after the damage was done. They recommended geotextiles layered between built up trim and cutting chamfer grouves at the butt joints for the caulk to adhere better- esentially a miniture pitch pocket for the caulk. Good luck w/ the cedar.

I'm sorry, I mentioned I am not buying a system and don't want one. Today I have been looking at copper pipe for the top rail. It oxidizes off to a handsome dark brown that I like as well as some galvanized pipe. If anyone has used pipe this way let me know how it worked out. As for saving a FEW bucks, I'm talking about a several thousand dollars on my 100 feet of deck railing compared to my friend's final price.