Eric; I'm exactly where you are - new redwood deck, ready to finish. I've found the deck finish industry to be very difficult to get a handle on. The literature is sketchy and doesn't always match whats available in stores around here. And on web forums, one person's success with a product can be matched to another's disaster. But I'm leaning towards Cabot's Clear Cedar, though I've not seen a semi-transparent sample except for what's on Cabot's web site. Can you tell me if your semi-transparent sample looks "painted" at all. I want to keep away from the opaque end of the spectrum without going purely clear and the lack of durability that comes with it. As far as prep goes, all I'm going to do is sand out any boot prints and black strapping marks and remove the dust with a damp rag. Then I'll let the sun darken the newly sanded areas for a few days, go over it again with a rag to clean any new dust off and apply the stain. I've read that Cabot has a pre-finisher for softwoods to make the stain absorb evenly but I think I'll skip that step. I don't think I'd ever rick pressure washing soft redwood so when the day comes to resurface this deck of mine, I'll rent a big sander. Concerning Aussi Timber Oil, I think it's more for hardwoods, even though Cabot's literature includes redwood as an application. I wish I knew more. Bill

Bill G., We used to have the Cabot SPF-series stains at our store here in Fago, ND. Nobody liked the colors...we could hardly GIVE it away...! (We actually DID donate some, just to get rid of the last of it...) We go through a LOT of Sikkens SRD, & Penofin. * My Redwood deck is 12 yrs. old...NO shade on it. * Up here...climate is from -30 to an occasional +100...talk about extremes!! * Sanded floor and steps 3 yrs ago. * I love the Sikkens SRD Redwood #089. * We do have some of the Cabot line, as well as the Clear-Solutions & the 4 Timber-Oil colors. You're correct...the less pigment in the stain, the less protection. >>> I can't in good faith recommend Clear-Solution for Decks. * For Fences...yes. * For swingsets/playsets/furniture...yes. * For horizontal structures like deck-floors...IMO, No. (Unless you LIKE re-coating frequently?!) Have we had a complaint on Sikkens up here??........NO. The Behr we used to have???........................YES. Faron

Hi Freeda, Brian, & Tommy, etc...! Freeda...Great analogy about lawn-mowing!! Yes, it's exactly like that! * The hardest part is getting the machine up/onto the deck! It needs to be heavy though to ensure good sanding contact. * The one at our store uses 12" x 18" sanding-pads & backer-pads. It has two "lever-handles" you squeeze...one for each hand, on the t-shaped handle. * Put on the pads/sheets, plug it in, squeeze the "triggers", and you're on your way to a "new" deck surface! It's kinda like Mountain-bike handle-bars, with a brake lever on each side. * Then, as Freeda said, you're off & mowing! * Direction: Yes, you go the long direction. If boards run N/S, you sand N/S. Keep the sander running as you turn. It's like taking a long walk, back & forth, on the deck. * You may need a light dust-mask!! * Start with 60-grit...finish with 80-grit. You COULD do a 3rd set of passes with 100-grit, but that's kinda overkill. Brian & Tommy...Yeah, cupping may be an issue if they're bad enough. In that case, it may be worth replacing the plank. If you do, install it BEFORE sanding!! That way, it'll minimize the variation how the new board absorbs stain. * The backer-pad does have decent flex to it, but it's still just a "see-as-you-go" scenario. * Using some pad & some of your sanding-sheets mounted to a 2x4 or sanding-handle might be a way to sand in a cupped area. >>> Call the Rental-stores/hardware in your area for this type of sander...VIBRATING-PLATE...NOT a drum-type. * Inquire also if they stock the pads, & their selection of sheets. * Make sure your Shop-vac is going strong too! * You can do a quick sweep to get most dust off, but a good vacuuming helps too. * Then, a quick wipe-down with paint-thinner. Wrap an old bedsheet/t-shirts around a shop-broom, and use it as a big "tack-cloth". Not soaking wet, just damp. * Now, just a few hours later...STAIN AWAY! Faron

We will actually allow redwood to dry a month or so, but not for the reasons stated. I just feel, the drier the surface is, the better the penetration. There is no stain/sealer that will look like fresh redwood. The approximations are not even close. Basically your choices are on the brownish side or the orange/red side. I would suggest sampling on scraps of the same material. Don't rely on the sample sticks, which are not the same as your material. You will most likely have to clean and prep, as John says. Do not use a pressure washer. The redwood is too soft for anyone but the most experienced users.