Cassma Thanks for the response. Evidently I didn't make it clear what I was looking for or maybe what I would like does not exist. Anyway...I have done further research and these are my conclusions: 1. Nothing is going to last more than a couple of years at the most. When I am unable to do it myself, I will have to hire someone. 2. I don't really like the look of solid stain so will go with Cabots semi transparent oil based stain. 3. I found a new to me tool that will enable me to apply the stain without having to be on my hands and knees brushing it on. It is by Wagner and looks kinda like a swiffer mop with a tank to hold solution. It has a felt like pad and a small brush to get between the boards. You stand up and apply like mopping. Wonder if anyone has used it before? As you say, I will powerwash and get it as clean as possible before applying the new stain. I also know that you need several days of clear weather before you start this project. The deck has to dry before the stain can be applied and then the stain has to dry thoroughly before it rains!!! Outside temperature should ideally be in the 70's with no freezing or heavy dew. Deck staining IS an art if you want it to last and look good. Again...hope this helps you with your project. Murphy

To the OP: * In the last pic, that board is too cracked-open to use safely. Wood splits occasionally...not much you can do about it. Decks see a LOT of thermal contraction/expansion. Some boards just can't take it for long, no matter how good the stain is. * For safety's sake, replace any other cracking boards. * For a band-aid approach ONLY...fill holes with some 2-part wood-filler...IF you can't replace any boards. * NOW...rent a Flat-plate/Vibrating sander with a 12" x 18" bottom-plate. Buy some backer-pads and 60-grit sanding sheets. * Sink all those screws below surface, and sand the deck floor. * You'll be sanding a while, but you're getting-rid of all that degraded wood that won't take stain anymore. You'll be exposing NEW wood fiber-structure that will TAKE AND HOLD stain evenly now. * My Redwood deck was built in '96...FULL sun...6' high. Have used Penofin's Transparent-Redwood originally, & Sikkens SRD Redwood #089 stain the last couple stainings. * Last year, I sanded my 2x10 Redwood skirtboards, Redwood steps, and all spindles. * Deck floor has been sanded twice in 14 yrs. BOTTOM LINE: Thanks to sanding and good deck stains, my 14y/o deck looks better than some NEW ones. >>> I work at a busy store that sells Sikkens and Penofin stains, and higher-end paints. I post a lot on the Paint forum. * The FIRST question I ask people..."Has your deck ever been sanded"? If it's been 8-10 yrs, I tell-'em it's time. * Cleaning doesn't do much if the wood is too degraded, like yours is. * I have other posts/pics on this forum too, related to my deck. Faron

the problem is the clearance we have under our already installed patio french doors. The duradek has not been removed yet. we were considering putting a liquid finish over top as a possible option (ie. Flexstone). We may have to go back to the duradek but are reluctant to do so as we have replaced it 3 times over the years. For the price it really doesn't hold up well to the elements in B.C.

cat_ky, By divider in the center, do you mean in the back section of the two decks? If so, I don't think we can install a divider since that part leads to the fire egress and should not have any obstructions. Below is another photo. The left of the chimney is my deck. To the right is my neighbor's deck. The door to the left of the photo is the fire egress. Behind the chimney is the area I think you are suggesting we put a divider. The second photo gives you a better view of the section. This is the section that leads to the fire egress for my neighbor.