After one or two of mine ended up in Apache Junction, I modified mine and it works 98% of the time. I cut the canopy starting at the peak, down each side about halfway down, following the roof poles. This gives you four triangles that peel down from the top. I happen to own a grommet tool so at the end of each cut I placed a grommet to keep the cut from traveling any further and tied it at the grommet point to the frame. Then I attached velcro tabs 1/2 way up each side of the triangles and at the top. When the wind blows too hard, the velcro comes appart and dumps the air. Depending om the material your canopy is made of, you may have to reinforce your edges where you make your cuts. You may have to expiriment with the size of you velcro tabs, but I found 1/2" x1/2" squares worked well for my material which was 65% sunscreen. It's important that you reinforce the ends of your cuts. If you don't have a grommet tool, a paper punch will work. the hole helps keep the cut from traveling, and you can add a square of duct, aluminum or other strong tape for extra strength. If you don't reinforce the cut, all the flapping arround will finish off the canopy. I found that cutting halfway was adequate for my canopy, but your wind exposure, material and overall weight all have an effect. More or less may work.

What type of window coverings are on these windows? It would be simple to layer, such as: any type of shade (pleated, cellular, roller) under an existing curtain (sheer, opaque), and raise and lower the shade as needed to modify the sun/heat. These shades can be custom, or cut to size at the local box store. My last 3 homes had west facing great rooms, and this was my solution. Plus, just my personal opinion, I don't care for awnings. Overall, I think the cost will equalize, in any event.

I would say all of the pricing is appropriate. You’re always going to pay a premium for a small job like that, because the contractor could be making double or triple on a job with more windows. That being said, if the only difference is “insulation” between the first and other two vinyl options, then $200+ is a lot to pay for what I suspect is actually “foam” in the chambers of the vinyl extrusion. All four bids should include insulation around the outside perimeter of the window frame between the studs. However, there may be more to consider in assessing value — frame depth, cosmetics, fold-away hardware, warranty, installation company, etc. Again, none of the prices strike me as unexpectedly high for what you’re looking to have done.

These pergolas are beautiful. Thanks for those photos! This awning will cost approximately $4000-4500 including labor. Any idea what cost might be for a non-louvered and for a louvered pergola? Think we’d only do aluminum or vinyl because of easier upkeep than wood. We live in central NJ. My contractor can likely get team of 2 to work for about $50/hour each. Thx!!