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Porches & Decks

Ipe and Brick deck

15 years ago

HI guys,

I got a lot of help from this site when I built my deck and I neglected to ever post any photos. It's a pretty unusual deck in that most of it is made of brick. It also has a roof below the deck so below the deck stays dry except when there is a lot of wind. I hired an architect to help me with the plans and then also hired a brick mason and concrete guy. I did all of the wood work, roof, copper guttering and electric. I also had a gas guy install the gas lamps on hookup for the gas grill. It was a lot of work -- 8 years of saving, 2 years of planning and several months of construction. We really wanted a brick deck so it would look like it was an original part of the house, not something added on later. Also, with the way the back of our house rises up from the hill we felt it needed to feel pretty "heavy" so the house didn't dwarf it. My wife did a wonderful job with the landscaping and we are very pleased with how it all turned out. We used the eb-ty system on the ipe. It's been 2 winters, no problems yet with cupping or anything else. Thank for everyone's help -- no way would I have had the confidence to tackle this project wihout this site.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/35401093@N02/

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Comments (4)

john_hyatt
15 years ago
Link not workiing. Which kind of eb-ty did you use,did you use the screws provided,did you pre drill and run the screw thru the clip and the ipe. J.
each1teach1
15 years ago
That is a home run!!!!! Awesome!!!
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Your roof top deck has plenty of clearance,most of mine have the width of the stringers 1 1/2''. I would sugest using counstruction adhesive as well as SS screws be very sure the screws do not go thru the stringers be very sure as well during install you dont damage the roof...like hiting it with the edge of a board,droping a drill bit first on it,steping on a screw things like that. Your right if your going to use anything on it use the S American lumber not manmade material. With your pool deck provide cross ventalation. This can be done with screen vents in the framing if this is not completly possible install floor vents in the decking combined with the frame vents. Cross ventalation is a vastley over looked but much needed addtion to any decking project. The gap between the decking boards will have no effect one way or the other venting your project unless there is air moving under it. If possble a drain system under the pool deck might help if done corectley but do not put a ground cover like plastic sheet/tar paper under it 1'' ipe will react the same way 3/4'' ipe will under the same conditions. The life span of both is also the same. J.
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Retaining walls retain things like dirt/rain.Normaly they have nothing to do with the House structure. It very well could have been the walls were put in because the basement would flood out during a heavy rain bringing all the dirt with it. Your right that is part of landscaping. If you decide to take em out anyway the piers for your deck support should go below the leval of the missing walls. Geting cross ventalation depends on the final deck plan. Its a deal with skirting I have taken to runing the skirting right into the ground because if I dont the Wallet yells at me because it dosent look finished. This happened so many times now I just do it as drill. Its not a good idea>> the skirting soaks up water,the weed eater hits it,dirt builds up around it things like that
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1. I would go w/ 2X10s for the ledger & joists. While most 2X8s can span 12 feet it depends on your local jurisdiction's code & what the live & dead loads are, the deflection coefficients, and the type joists. Plus 2X10s will reduce the floor bounce better than 2X8s. Also, since you are cantilevering the IRC code requires that 2X10 joists be used. The size girder is dependant on the post spacing. I would go w/ 5 posts spaced at 6'. Three 2X10s are plenty sufficient for that. 2. I would go w/ 5/4 if money is no object & probably even it it was. Less cupping typically & if you want to run the decking on a diagonal that increases the span but no problem w/ 5/4 IPE. 3. The joist's spacing is related to the joist span (which is 12' approximately (I guess 11' since it sounds like it will be cantilevered by 1')) and to the size & type of joists used. I would go w/ 16" OC.
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Hi My, To answer your question. No, I don't have a per Sq. ft figure, but my deck is about 430 square feet. I purchased about 550sq ft. of materials from www.ipedepot.com, 5/4 6" pre-grooved ipe decking mixed lengths and the stainless steel clips (5 boxes) 80 feet of the large hand rail caps (deck railing) and about 10 feet of the small rail caps (Stairs)and solid 4X4 ipe posts for about $5800 including shipping to Long Island, NY. You should check out Gearge@eastteak for comporable pricing as well. I also spent another $1500 on the substructure (concrete and the ACQ PT pine) and about $6000 for the labor. Deck was completed in two weeks from start to finish. The glass balusters were purchased serperately @ $53.00 per box. MSRP $89.99 and each box has 5 pieces of balusters and exact hardware for each of the 5 panes. The lights are from hpdlighting.com and the tiffany post caps are about $25.00 per cap (non lighted). I customized the caps to have them lit up... Hope this helps? -Alex
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kempter
Original Author
15 years ago
Hi John,
Try this link, or copy and paste into your browser and it works. I used the screws that came with the system, #2 square head and I pre-drilled. I used a really good Makita driver and was very careful at how I put them in -- yes, through the clip and through the ipe. I had the ipe routed at the lumber yard. I've been very pleased -- live in the midwest and have had no problems. I know there are a lot of disagreements on these systems, but at least in my experience it has worked out well.

Here is a link that might be useful: flicker Set
john_hyatt
15 years ago
Thanks Marc I kept keying that thing in going to the blank screen thing Anyway very nice porject and the house is not bad either!!

Two years down I cant disagree with suscess I just dont understand it. Those round head ss screws are so close to the size of the opening in the metal inserts, the predill has to be perfect and not touch the metal same with the slant of the drill you used the right tool far as the makita impact but still ghesssss you must have really taken your time/done everything right every time.

Also your roof top deck has no cross ventalation that I could see that is a perfect for warping. Why yours worked and so maney dont is a problem to me, I would Think about using them if the faliure rate was not so high.

Side Note>> those little things costs me $3200 when they first came outSeveral big yucks with your Wife under the frame with only Her feet left out!!!

The way I am set up pluging or T&G material is way less$ than the cost of the clips/install/ pregrouve/labor combined with the faliure rate I am not likely to use them on a Wallets job. I am thinking you really slowed down reaching for the best you could do and of course it Worked!! J.

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