I was about to say "yes, looks good, kit is complete", but then noticed that you said you "bought the valve you need". What does that mean? did you buy a new valve and have it installed? It seems that you are either matching trim to the existing valve that came with the house, so presumably that ebay trim is right, Or, you bought the valve separately, and now you would need to make sure you buy trim that fits the new valve (if it's a different model#, mfr.#, etc.). BTW, are you sure the valve is original, or were the previous owners in the midst of replacing it, but never completed the job? Does the installation look original or recent? How old is the house? Some things to consider. This post was edited by homebound on Mon, Aug 19, 13 at 7:50

We use Moen valves and faucets. A professional, licensed plumber, experienced in performing a tub/shower valve replacements can cut the tile with a grinder or multi-tool, install a new Moen valve and install a Moen repair plate to cover the holes from the previous two handle valve. If performed correctly, there will be no evidence that there was a two handle valve except for the repair plate. It is recommended that you have a licensed plumber perform this type of work, as it will require soldering in the wall in a confined area. This is not something the average DIYer should attempt. Typical cost $800-$1200. Trust me, it's worth it. We have to bail DIYer's out all the time who try projects like this and get in way over their heads. Do not go with the cheapest tub and shower faucet. It is not an easy job to replace one, once it is installed. Purchase the best that you can afford. You only want to do this once. Ask your plumber for recommendations. Purchase it through your plumber, if possible, he will usually stand behind it if there is a problem. He will not warranty one that you provide. If you are going to remove the tile and tub, then the valve replacement is much simpler, however, you are turning this into a major project. Pulling the tub usually results in drain issues and flooring issues. Most of the time, this requires floor repairs or replacement and drain replacements. In most areas of the country, there are also ordinances requiring this work to be performed by a licensed plumbing contractor with a permit. If you hire a contractor, please make sure they have a plumbing license and will procure all necessary permits and inspections that your local municipality requires. If they will not do this, look elsewhere, no matter how cheap they are. Good Luck with your project. Here is a link that might be useful: Lemay Plumbing, Inc., a St. Louis Plumbing Contractor

By all means going in from back is a viable option. If the tile does have to be broken into,grab all the large pieces and go shopping for matching tile. Your tile color look's timeless and very well may be available.

I had another go at getting that chrome cover off. It was silicone'd in place :) Looks like my mixing valve is connected with PEX for the Hot, Cold and up to the shower head. The connection down to the tub spout is soldered copper. The other side of the wall is in a laundry room and the wall area is clear. I did find a video that showed the procedure for cutting the wall and replacing the mixing valve. I am not sure I want to tackle replacing the valve at this time. That's a good project for when I have a whole day available. I would have to borrow a PEX tool. I wonder if the threaded on connectors could be spun without cutting the PEX? Would that destroy the PEX seal? I have all the pipe soldering tools and copper pipe fittings. Here's a couple pics of the round brass valve/mixer and the valve itself. You can see the PEX connections left, right and up