Water Softener backwash

11 years ago

I need some help with my water softener. I have a fleck 2510sxt on a 10x54 tank with about 1.25cuft of standard resin.

The problem I'm having is the backwash mode is only expanding the resin by about 9 inches during regeneration. I have 4-5 inches of gravel in the bottom of the tank and about 30 inches of resin. Everything I read says that I should be achieving a backwash expansion of 50% or more (15+ inches).

My current DLFC is 2.4. The drain line has a vertical run of about 4ft before going horizontal for 15 ft to the air gap drain. Drain pipe is 3/4 cpvc. Will increasing the DLFC to 3, 4 or 5 improve the bed expansion during backwash?

Thanks.

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Comments (9)

User
11 years ago
How did you determine the bed expansion is 9 inches?
remington351
Original Author
11 years ago
The tank is a light tan color. Shine a bright flashlight from behind the tank with the basement lights off and I can see the level of resin when in service and when backwashing.
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Spoken like a septic inspector... around here the septic inspectors know little to nothing about water treatment but are rife with anecdotal stories about failed septic systems and blaming softener discharge. When challenged to provide any actual studies supporting their position they can't seem to find them and never want to blame failed systems on the loose nuts in the house who throw anything they can down the drain or pump their systems only when they back up into the house, I'd like to think we're pretty good at troubleshooting systems. Rarely would I say the softener is a sole cause of failure, but definitely one of the variables that affect system life. As far as anecdotal evidence, every system I see with softener backwash has poorly developed to no scum layer, suspended soilds and milky to cloudy liquid where it should be clear, and highly clogged effluent filters with what's clogging it very slimy vs. normal soilds buildup in clogged filters. I admit that many water treatment businesses are responsible for selling and installing a great many systems that are undersized and regenerate too frequently and those systems are rarely set up to maximize water and salt efficiency... EVERY big box store that sells softeners comes to mind and a great many online softener sellers. Improper design/installation of anything goes without saying here, not much to disagree with. I expect you take your job seriously and consider yourself an expert septic inspector and you've undoubtedly found some studies and articles blaming softeners for failed septic systems. You might read the voluminous scientific studies that found no correlation between softener discharge and septic system failure. If by voluminous you mean sparse and outdated with bad methodology and conclusions extrapolated beyond the study...
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I missed this the first time - sorry about that. For the Katalox, you will need to follow the recommendations from your vendor. Based on the specs, the vessel diameter appears a little undersized, but perhaps they have some information I don't. I would keep backwash time on the high end of the spec (10 minutes). Test your water to ensure it is working properly. For your softener: Enter Master Programming Mode DF=Gal VT = St2b OR df2b CT=Fd NT=1 C=31 H=16 RS=SF SF=15 RC=0 (You are using a % reserve rather than a fixed reserve) CR=0 DO=10 RT=2:00 (or another convenient time when you won’t be using water for a couple of hours) Regeneration cycle step times BW1=12 BD=75 BW2=7 RR=10 BF=24 Ensure all days are set to ON, unless you have a specific day of the week when you do not want the softener to regen. CD doesn’t matter unless you set a day to OFF in step 14. FM You shouldn’t have to change this doesn’t matter Exit Master Programming Mode. Pour 7 gallons of water into the brine tank. Add salt. Reset your clock to actual time. At this point it’s a good idea to force the softener to step through the regen steps. There is no need to allow each step to complete. Just leave it in each step long enough to verify that the valve has changed position then move on to the next until you are back in service mode. Enjoy your soft water.
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User
11 years ago
Okay, how old is the softener? Is this a new problem? Water pressure? Do you have particulates in your water (pre-softener)? Does your water contain iron and/or manganese?When the softener is in backwash mode, can you re-direct the flow to a bucket and get an idea of the actual flowrate you are getting?
remington351
Original Author
11 years ago
Thanks for the help, Alice.

The softener unit is new from Ohio Pure Water. Installed six months ago. Expansion rate has been consistent since installed. Pressure is from a well and Amtrol pressure tank with 30/50psi switch. The softener is plumbed downstream from a 10x54 calcite tank.

No iron. No Manganese. No particulates/sediment in raw water.

Bucket measure will be kind of a pain.
User
11 years ago
One more question that I should have asked. What type of resin are you using? If you know the specific brand and product that would be great. If not, at least need to know if it is standard or fine mesh. Did you pay for a resin upgrade or get the standard from Ohio Pure?
User
11 years ago
Also, have you contacted Ohio Pure about the issue? What did they say?
remington351
Original Author
11 years ago
Purolite standard resin. Not fine mesh. I emailed OPW a couple of months ago asking about the 9 inch expansion and they said that I "really should try to get a 50% expansion". I asked for any advice and they said to try setting the backwash to 15min instead of 10min. I did not inquire about changing the DLFC at that time.
User
11 years ago
Purolite C-100E resin, you need a backwash rate of 3 gallons/minute/sqft at 40 deg F, 5 at 50 deg F, 5.8 at 68 deg F. This translates to 1.6 gpm at 40 deg F, 2.5 gpm at 50 deg F, 3.2 gpm at 68 deg F.

At 2.4 GPM, you should be getting about 4.4 gpm/sqft. If you are only getting 33% bed expansion, either your water is warm or there is a clog somewhere and you are not actually getting the correct flow rate.

Measure the temperature of the backwash water. If it is above 50 deg F then you need a larger DLFC. If it is below, then you likely have an obstruction somewhere.
remington351
Original Author
11 years ago
Alice, thanks for the detailed answer. The basement is heated during the fall and winter with a pellet stove to about 78f. So I think the water in my pressure tank may be getting a little warm. I'll check the temps next regeneration.

Water Softener backwash

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Water Softener backwash

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