I think someone recommended that size for long contact time of the chlorine. The drain currently discharges into the yard. I have been wanting to move it further out to swale by the driveway though. I dug and dug in the spot where it currently seems to bubble up, but never found the pipe. I think I may just have to do a new one. was going to redo it with a hose as the pipe.

There are having two forms of sulfur which are commonly found in drinking water supplies. The name of this two forms are sulfate and hydrogen sulfide. Sulfate mineral is a great chemical for the cleaning of water. Here is a link that might be useful: septic tank aerator

Treatment depends on water test. Most Iron removal methods require PH over a certain level to work well (PH must be measured on site. Sometimes Carbon dioxide is present in the water affecting PH. It will dissipate if test occurs offsite) Very low levels of iron can be handled by fine mesh resin in a water conditioner. More serious Alternatives: Birm: hot work if Hydrogen sulfide present. Needs rebedding every few years, PH6.8+, weak Manganese removal(better with hgher PH), Needs oxygen in water(special filter control heads can add) Greensand: need Potasium Permanganate as consumable. Not need oxygen, better at Manganese than Birm, removes Hydrogen sulfide if present Manganese Dioxide(Brand Filox best) can remove even heaviest levels of Iron & Manganese. Needs oxygen in water, no other consumable. Lasts indefinitely. Must have very strong backwash (Best in tall narrow vs short fat tanks)

There are several options for iron removal. Each has pros and cons - hopefully this will help you make a decision: Softener: You have expressed no desire for a softener, but, just in case you want the info anyway - A softener with specialty resin is capable of removing dissolved iron, up to 7 ppm (mg/L) but asking a softener to remove iron at those upper limits is really pushing it so I do not recommend this method. In addition, a softener will become fouled with particulate iron. A softener will not remove sulfur compounds. Additionally, extra steps need to be taken monthly to ensure the iron is adequately stripped from softener resin - This is the poorest choice for iron treatment. Oxidation/Filtration: An oxidizer such as ozone, air, or chlorine may be used to react with the iron and force it to become particulate iron that can then be removed via filtration. This will also remove most sulfur compounds. A typical setup would involve the oxidizing unit, a holding tank, then a media filter. This type of system works quite well, but takes some expertise in sizing - you would want a water treatment pro that you trust to help you with this option. Oxidizing filtration media: This type of treatment consists of a sealed tank filled with one of several media. Water passes through and is oxidized and filtered by the media. Most will remove sulfur compounds as well as iron. These are relatively easy to operate and what I recommend for the average homeowner. There are several different media that can be used: Manganese greensand: water runs through for treatment. The media must be regenerated with potassium permanganate. Care must be taken with dealing with potassium permanganate as it readily dies organic material, such as your skin, a purple-brown color. Some people are quite comfortable dealing with the chemical; others are not. Synthetic greensand: This is essentially the same as option (a) but consists of a coating of greensand on a silica sand core so does not require as much backwash flow. Service flow rate is 2 - 5 gpm/sq ft. Backwash flow rate is 12 gpm/sq ft. Birm: This media acts as a catalyst to force oxidation of iron. While it does not need to be regenerated, it does need fairly high dissolved oxygen in the water. If your water does not have adequate dissolved oxygen (and it probably doesn't since it is well water), air injection would be necessary prior to the birm. Additionally, birm requires a minimum pH of 6.8. Service flow rate is 3.5 - 5.0 gpm per sqft. Backwash flow rate is 11 - 20 gpm, depending upon water temperatures and desired bed expansion. Pyrolox: an ore that oxidizes then filters the iron out. It does not need regeneration, but needs to be backwashed (to rinse out the iron) at a high rate. pH range is 6.5 - 9.0. This type of filter works very well, but backwash is critical. Service flow rate is 5 gpm/sqft. Backwash is 25-30 gpm/sqft. Backwash daily. Terminox: Similar to Pyrolox, but a proprietary formula . It does not require as much backwash flow rate and is more resistance to a low pH. The particulars are only available from the company that sells it - this means you have to rely entirely on the vendor for proper sizing. Backwash daily. Filox: Also similar to Pyrolox. pH range 5.0 - 9.0. Backwash flow 12-15 gpm/sqft. Service flow 6 gpm/sqft. It must be backwashed daily. Pro-OX: Essentially the same as the previous three. Requires 12-15 gpm/sqft backwash. As with Terminox, specs are lacking information so you'll have no way of knowing if the unit you get is sized appropriately. Katalox-light: Similar in action to the previous four, but is comprised of zeolite, manganese dioxide and hydrated lime. It should be designed for 6 - 12 gpm/sqft service flow atnd 8 - 10 gpm/sqft backwash. For well water, it's a good option as it requires lower backwash. In all cases, media ought to be replace somewhere between 5 - 10 years. If any vendor tells you their media lasts forever, walk away - they aren't trustworthy.