I think someone recommended that size for long contact time of the chlorine. The drain currently discharges into the yard. I have been wanting to move it further out to swale by the driveway though. I dug and dug in the spot where it currently seems to bubble up, but never found the pipe. I think I may just have to do a new one. was going to redo it with a hose as the pipe.

Just bought a house and our well water smells horrible, makes a room smell when you turn on the water, esp hot water. Think rotten eggs. Water test results- 13 GPG, .5 iron, 360tds. We are over 5 years away from being hooked up to city water, so need something that will last awhile. We have a quote from Kinetco dealer for 6,000- Kinetico 2030, kinetico k5 and Iron Dagger filter for removal of odor. I have not been able to find any reviews of Iron Dagger except on the website of the water service who did the testing and quote. Searching garden web regarding this for the first time today, it seems like Fleck has a good reputation. What do we do for an iron filter and will that take care of that horrible odor? Is Fleck commonly used with independent water system services?

We have a well 400 ft deep that gives 10 gal/min. We are moving into the house next week and I am trying to figure out if we need to treat the water. The results form the county test are as follows... All results in mg/L unless otherwise specified. Ph 6.79 Calcium 6.2 Iron 1.62 Hardness 27 mg caco3/L Magnesium 2.7 Manganese 0.02 Sodium 6.7 Is there a way to filter the iron out without using a water softening system? I am not sure if it is ferric or ferrous yet. I am going to leave a sink full overnight and see if it changes color. Also, what is the consequence of iron at this level? I don't want to shorten the life of my new appliances, but I also don't want to soften or filter unless we need to. Thanks in advance! Cross posted in building a home

At the very least, they should recommend an acid neutralizer. As to the iron, treatment depends on whether it is ferric (particulate), or ferrous (dissolved). You'll need a dedicated iron/manganese removal unit. If any vendor recommends a softener for your iron removal, show them the door. A little light reading about various iron removal options: Oxidation/Filtration: An oxidizer such as ozone, air, or chlorine may be used to react with the iron and force it to become particulate iron that can then be removed via filtration. This will also remove most sulfur compounds. A typical setup would involve the oxidizing unit, a holding tank, then a media filter. This type of system works quite well, but takes some expertise in sizing - you would want a water treatment pro that you trust to help you with this option. Oxidizing filtration media: This type of treatment consists of a sealed tank filled with one of several media. Water passes through and is oxidized and filtered by the media. Most will remove sulfur compounds as well as iron. These are relatively easy to operate and what I would recommend for the average homeowner. There are several different media that can be used: Manganese greensand: water runs through for treatment. The media must be regenerated with potassium permanganate. Care must be taken with dealing with potassium permanganate as it readily dies organic material, such as your skin, a purple-brown color. Some people are quite comfortable dealing with the chemical; others are not. Synthetic greensand: This is essentially the same as option (a) but consists of a coating of greensand on a silica sand core so does not require as much backwash flow. Service flow rate is 2 - 5 gpm/sqft. Backwash flow rate is 12 gpm/sqft. Birm: This media acts as a catalyst to force oxidation of iron. While it does not need to be regenerated, it does need fairly high dissolved oxygen in the water. If your water does not have adequate dissolved oxygen (and it probably doesn't since it is well water), air injection would be necessary prior to the birm. Additionally, birm requires a minimum pH of 6.8. Service flow rate is 3.5 - 5.0 gpm per sqft. Backwash flow rate is 11 - 20 gpm, depending upon water temperatures and desired bed expansion. Pyrolox: an ore that oxidizes then filters the iron out. It does not need regeneration, but needs to be backwashed (to rinse out the iron) at a high rate. pH range is 6.5 - 9.0. This type of filter works very well, but backwash is critical. Service flow rate is 5 gpm/sqft. Backwash is 25-30 gpm/sqft. Backwash daily. Terminox: Similar to Pyrolox, but a proprietary formula . It does not require as much backwash flow rate and is more resistance to a low pH. The particulars are only available from the company that sells it - this means you have to rely entirely on the vendor for proper sizing. Backwash daily. Filox: Also similar to Pyrolox. pH range 5.0 - 9.0. Backwash flow 12-15 gpm/sqft. Service flow 6 gpm/sqft. It must be backwashed daily. Pro-OX: Essentially the same as the previous three. Requires 12-15 gpm/sqft backwash. As with Terminox, specs are lacking information so you'll have no way of knowing if the unit you get is sized appropriately. Katalox-light: Similar in action to the previous four, but is comprised of zeolite, manganese dioxide and hydrated lime. It should be designed for 6 - 12 gpm/sqft service flow atnd 8 - 10 gpm/sqft backwash. For well water, it's a good option as it requires lower backwash. In all cases, media ought to be replace somewhere between 5 - 10 years. If any vendor tells you their media lasts forever, walk away - they aren't trustworthy.