Urgent!Travertine coping cracking/coming apart
mwrede
14 years ago
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renovxpt
14 years agomwrede
14 years agoRelated Discussions
Coping with bedbugs
Comments (39)If the bites are in a row, I agree, and thanks, Sue, for posting again and reminding me to respond. Funnily enough, I have been totally consumed the past two weeks with tackling the bed bug infestation at my mother-in-law's. Yes, for those of you who have followed this thread from the outset, the source of our infection has now been narrowed down to her almost for sure. As for where she got them, could have been from a neighbouring suite in her building, could have been from her son (NOT the one I'm married to) staying for a while a year or two back - he's a heroin addict who has spent time in some very questionable accommodation, as well as the street. I will be posting shortly a bit more on the battle at my mother-in-law's. But for now, for Suz, or anyone else who worries they've just brought some home: Examine your bed first. The most common harbourage sites are along the piping on the mattress and even more under the corner protectors of the box spring and underneath it on the rails. If you have a wood bed (or a tufted one!) examine its nooks and crannies. Take it right apart. You can see adult bugs quite easily, juvenile ones with a slightly more careful look, and even eggs if you educate yourself what to look for and look closely - get a nice magnifying glass if you have to, or a pair of high powered reading glasses. If you have just been infected, and thus have just a few bugs, they will almost certainly only be on your bed. And even if they are on the nightstand or still in the hallway, wait a few days and do it again. They will always come to your bed. That is why you have to keep sleeping in the same place. If you find them, gather them in a glass jar or plastic container (they can't crawl out of these) and kill by any means that appeals to you. If you have a bed that you can't examine all that well, say, a tufted headboard, then get a steam cleaner and just steam the whole thing as best you can. To the extent that the steam can penetrate, it will kill bugs and eggs. A vacuum cleaner can also be used, but is not as reliable as a steam cleaner for crannies you can't get into. If there are crannies you have real doubts about, then consider caulking some of them, to seal in any current occupants and to eliminate harbourage sites in the event of future visitors. Obviously, not an option for tufted! Any time you get more bites, check the bed over again. Or just do a broad-spectrum steaming. Carry on until you get no more bites, and count your blessings that you show your bites. My mother in law doesn't, so we'll be checking that bed for quite a while without really knowing whether we still have a problem or not. And just a reminder, too, that it is flea season, and around here we had a light winter and my first forays into the garden this spring brought me in with groups of bites several times. I seemed to get one in my sweater and it would just stay in there and bite at will - I would have 8 or 10 bites in random groupings on my back or where ever. I finally put the sweater in the dryer, and that seems to do the trick for any kind of bug. KarinL...See MoreCantilever solid deck with no coping brick/stone
Comments (3)To Answer all your questions. Yes. Cantilever decks are notorious for cracking on the backside of the pool bond beam. You should always do pool coping and then put an expansion joint between the coping and the deck. The ones you put every 6 feet around the pool deck are called control joints. They are cut into the deck by a tool or saw when the concrete is poured. That red clay you have is highly expansive. I would lay 3" of road base around the pool before you place your rebar and concrete....See MoreCrack in concrete deck- normal?
Comments (11)Our pool was installed last year and we had a 2 cracks form within a couple of weeks of the pour. We had the same guarantee from our pool builder that Grassy mentioned above. However, since 2 weeks seemed a little ridiculous, we still called the concrete installer who came back promptly & investigated our issues. The first one was a good size crack and the installer admitted that they should have placed the expansion joint differently. They broke out the entire section & re-poured it within a matter of days and did the expansion joint differently. The other crack was smaller & more spidery in nature. It was closer to the pool and ran through a section of the concrete that butted up against our aluminum coping, included the skimmer access, and had wire mesh underneath. Based on how the surrounding sections had been poured, expansion joints, etc. it would have required many additional sections to be removed & re-poured to keep everything looking consistent. We agreed that it was acceptable to live with that one, which of course was the smaller & less unsightly of the two cracks. It's now one year later and we have had no additional cracking after a typical Michigan winter. The crack we agreed to live with expanded slightly, but I just stare at the pool as I walk by. I do believe that some cracking is part of the nature of the beast. However, with all that said yours looks rather agressive to me and leads me to wonder if they compacted properly before they poured. I'd complain for sure....See MoreUrgent! What to do about gap between coping and tile?
Comments (6)We normally make up our own grout, with a mixture of (1) 94 # bg. of white portland, 14 -15 shovels of mason sand and color from the Cast Stone manufacturer. This allows us to match the grout color to the stone. You can use a SMS grout color that comes in a 25# bgs. as provided by the tile supplier, or Home Depot., and pick the color you like; or have your designer pick it out for you. We always make up a batch of color and allow it to dry, as it is considerably lighter when it dries than when it is wet. If your tile is uneven where it meets the bottom of the stone, you will need a 3/8" grout jt. in order to lay the travertine level. You can lay a 1/4" th. grout joint, however it is more difficult to install. Most stone or brick is tuck pointed after it is used for coping. Tuck pointing allows for the grout to be pushed into the joint and leave a nice tight finish, and eliminate any voids. One little trick that you can try that will give you a little more time, and make the grout, either by hand or premixed bagged, is to add a tiny bit of KARO syrup. This makes the grout more flowable, and allows more time to work the grout. As soon as you add the KARO syrup to the grout, you will notice a creamer consistency.. A lot of the travertine paver( 1-1/4" thick) is sand set here in Florida. A couple of reasons. Eliminate the expense of forming, pouring and paying for concrete, which could crack and causes a transfer crack(s) to anything placed on top of it. If you place 4" crushed concrete(which is recycled concrete) instead, it is considerably less costly. Place a 1" leveling course of screening sand.( In Florida it is made from crushed limestone), then place the travertine paver on that. The perimeter will be mud set, so as to secure the border. If at some point you decide to add to the deck, you just need to repeat the process and it will not look like an add on. NO CRACKS EVER on your sand set pool deck. They do make a special polymer sand to place between the joints of the travertine pavers. I prefer tumbled travertine pavers as opposed to the chiseled edge. Ivory colored travertine makes for a beautiful clean look. Tom A from South Florida...See Morerenovxpt
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