I have one year old a GE profile Double Oven range converted to propane. Lately smell gas and I detected a small leak on the input flex hose to the end of range (bottom valve); [flexible gas connector from the gas shutoff valve to the range] What shall I use? I perfectly understand that I can use rather than yellow tape Gas dope as "RectorSeal", LocTite's anaerobic or Permatex formagasket #2. Which one is greatly available and where can I buy from? I don't want to spend $65 for a problem I detected myself without any technician from Sears or so. I am living in Hamden , Connecticut.

Thank you, Geoffrey, for your reply. I appreciate it very much. That's the problem. The hot water heater is in the basement and the water lines go over and in between some furnace duct and the double wall metal chimney the water heater exhaust is vented through. The plumbing was undoubtedly put in before the furnace was installed when the house was built because even if the plumbers had prefabricated these hidden connections, which contain the 45 degree bends, they would not have been able to place them where they are. I could do it, but I would have to remove the lower part of the metal chimney and some furnace ducts. It's simply easier to use Sharkbite push to fit fittings and flexible hoses. I'm fairly certain that the plumbing code the state of Ohio and my county have adopted does not in any way forbid the installation of the Sharkbite fittings and hoses. The only prohibition I have been able to find involves the Chicago code. I'll certainly find out when the water heater installation is inspected.

"There is nothing wrong with connecting brass to galvanized. It's done all the time and I've never seen it be a problem." So if brass to galvanized is ok, then it would be fine to use copper pipe connected to a brass fitting that connects to galvanized pipe, right?. My preference is to unscrew a galv elbow from the old pipe and connect either copper or PEX pipe to the threaded galv. pipe., but if I run into problems and can'r remove the elbow cleanly, my backup solution is to fit a coupler to un-threaded galv pipe. This is my backup coupler: https://www.amazon.de/Gebo-Armaturen-Temperguss-Klemmverbinder-Zoll-01-150-00-01/dp/B0017VC9VE Thanks!

More research...and estimates of cost. 1 wall 39" x 60", 1 wall 65" x 60", 1 pony wall 39" x 15", top of pony wall, 4" x 39". Durock- $155.00 panels 5 = 75 sf = $65.00 Screws 180/ $10.00 Fiberglass mesh Tape $8.00 (1 roll, may need 2.) Thinset adhesive over tape. $30.00??? Type 1 organic adhesive or latex modified thinset mortar Liquid membrane $55.00/gal (will 1 gallon be enough?) Kerdi membrane (plus Durock or drywall first??). $373.00 + (more work taping.) Kerdi membrane 75 sf $163.00 Kerdi screws 2 boxes? $25.00 Kerdi inner corners 2/ $13.00 Kerdi outer corners 4/ $26.00 Kerdi shower arm $8.00 Kerdi faucet $8.00 Unmodified thinset mortar $30.00???? Kerdi board (plus Durock or drywall first??) $379.00 + Kerdi board 6 = $222.00 Kerdi band $38.00 Kerdi screws 2/ $25.00 Kerdi fix $25.00 Unmodified thinset mortar $30?? ?? Kerdi inner corners 2/$13.00 ?? Kerdi outer corners 4/26.00 Wedi board tub surround kit $575.00 5 – 3x5 panels 10 oz joint sealant 1 box washers 100 ct 1 box screws 100 ct 2 flexi collars I know kerdi board says it does not need a backer board or drywall, but I am not sure about that. It also says it can go in front of drywall. Really don't like that. Do I need to waterproof the back side of the pony wall, too? Or just the tub side and the top of the pony wall? Did I leave anything out of the materials list? I couldn't get a price on the unmodified thinset so I guessed. Laticrete Hydro Ban boards- $???? Look like they are as easy to install as Wedi boards. Couldn't find any prices. Wedi might be more expensive, but it is easier and faster to do if I can't find a contractor who has used it. Even with no experience with it, surely he could install it. Maybe?? If he won't, then it will be a DIY situation. Has anyone used Hydro Ban boards? Are they as easy to install as Wedi? Thanks.