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$2000.00 to install garbage disposal? HELP

16 years ago

I've just had new countertops installed in the kitchen. The plumber came out this morning to hook up the faucet and disposal. He said because the sink was too deep, that in order to hook up the garbage disposal he would have to cut into the wall, remove the diswasher and lower the drain line. He gave me an estimate of over $2000.00.

I have to get this done in the next 2 days. I'm in shock and don't have much time for estimates. I live in New Lenox, Illinois and want to know if this is reasonable.

thanks!

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Comments (6)

davidandkasie
16 years ago
sounds HIGH to me, but i have no clue what exactly is involved in lowering YOUR drain. most of them are not that hard to do, but certain situations it could be an all day job.

if it truly is going to cost that much, then i would just do without a GD!
spielbass
16 years ago
Whatever is involved, that's too much, even if it takes all day. Is this the ordinary bolt-to-the-drain type of GD? Those are usually simple to install, IME. If I were in your position, I'd let him finish without it, take a breath, step back and get some other opinions on what to do.
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You have to watch the vertical stack up and where the drain stub cones out from the wall. It is not usually very hard to lower a drain if the cabinets are not installed, but it needs to be accounted for to prevent problems after the cabinets are installed. I have had a cpuple of remodels with 12 inch deep Blanco sinks that the 'designer' failed to check the drain stub height. One of them would have left 2 inches of water in the GD all the time. Clients are rarely happy about extra charges for dumb mistakes.
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I was under the impression that GFCI wasnt necessary to have under the cabinet. What i read seem to indicate that the GFCI under the cabinet would be a pain to have to reset and since it wasnt necessary to just not do it. I appreciate the info and will continue to look more into the GFCI outlet if i put in an outlet. I was mostly confused on the white wire but am happy to take any and all advice about wiring everything. If i understand correctly the first box with the switch in it should have 4 ground wires. Wire 1 - Incoming 14/2 from panel Wire 2 - Outgoing 14/2 to disposal or receptacle Wire 3 - additional copper to green screw attached to metal junction box Wire 4 - additional copper to green screw on switch. Wires 3 + 4 i will be adding. All 4 wires need to be connected together via a wing nut. Can i just wrap wire 1 around the green screw prior to joining it to wire 2 to eliminate wire 3? I was going to use the whip instead of leaving the exposed romex. My main panel is 10 feet from my kitchen so i figured i would just turn off the breaker to the disposal if i ever needed to work on it.
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I'll give it a try. Feel more confident after your post. What the hell do I have to lose. If I put the thing on craigslist I would be lucky to get 1/2 of what I paid. If I install it I have a 50/50 shot it'll work - but as I said, you have made me feel more at ease. Thanks again. Lynn
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It's pretty straightforward. Pay attention as to how it comes apart and you should be fine. Newbies have difficulty snapping the retainer ring back on while simultaneously keeping the flange from popping up. You may want a second set of hands to hold the flange in place while you install the ring. I'd use 100% silicone on the flange after cleaning it throughly please. Plumber's putty leaks; the eco-weenies have apparently taken out the chemicals that used to keep it soft and leak-free years ago.
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bosun2
16 years ago
The problem isn't bolting this to the drain. The problem is that your wall drain is too high. Often, when people get new counters and undermount sinks, their sink is much deeper than the old one. As a result, your drain stub from the wall is still set for your old sink. Adding a GD to the new lower drain makes it even lower! So, you need to run a new drain line from the vertical stack in the wall, which is often mounted several feet away because we all like kitchen windows. I'd live w/o the kitchen disposal, or do most of it yourself.

I'm not a plumber. But you can do most of this yourself--it just takes time. And your plumber will do it all for 110 an hour...
asolo
16 years ago
Ditto others. Live without it for a while and consider your options. If it's that kind of job, you can do it any time. From cyber-distance, can't tell if proposal reasonable or not. However, if it cost me that much to have one, I'd do without.
chrisinnc
16 years ago
If you have a crawl space, one solution could be to cap the current line as it comes out of the wall and run a new one either through the wall or through the floor of the cabinet. Most prefer through the wall because of the space taken away, but going straight down after the trap is easier. The line can then be tied back in to the waste pipes with less complications under the house.

If the vent pipe will normally be close to the sink. If it is too far away, sinks can be vented with a studor valve instead of using a vent pipe in some places. Then all it would take is running a new line at the appropriate slope to an already connected drain pipe.
susanilz5
Original Author
16 years ago
Thank you everyone. Problem solved. I was lucky enough to have another plumber in the area give me an estimate and install everything. It took 4 hours and was $950.

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