I know I struggled with this when having mine installed. There are so many variables. I found this article online that sort of raps down some of the things to consider. You could also look at houzz and sort by bathroom wall mounted faucet. Luckily, mine worked out great. You can look at mine by searching at the bottom of this page for Treetop (I posted pics with that name). "Julius Ballanco, president of JB Engineering and Code Consulting in Munster, Ind., says since wall-mounted faucets take more abuse, contractors should choose a sturdy one. "I will pay extra money for a solid-brass connection," he says. Bartlett cautions remodelers to make sure they can find parts for whatever type of faucet they choose. Height and depth Bartlett also advises contractors to "measure, measure, measure" when installing these faucets. "Have your sink available to take measurements from to make sure you have the right height," the plumber says. He says that although there's no standard for wall-mounted faucet heights, contractors must leave an air gap between the top of the sink and the bottom of the faucet. "Don't let the faucet go inside the sink -- that's a code violation. You need 1 inch of airspace between the top of the sink's flood level and the bottom of the faucet," he says. On the other hand, if the faucet is too high, he cautions, water will splash out of the sink. Tim Mullally, president of KWC Faucets, in Norcross, Ga., says the company's Vesuno faucet extends 6, 9, or 12 inches from the wall. "The height of the faucet will depend on whether you're using it with a vessel bowl, a bar sink, or an under-mount sink," he says. Since the faucet is mounted on the wall, it also requires a longer reach to operate. Mullally says that if the primary user of the bathroom is a child or is short, make sure they can reach the handles."

My vent is a rigid vent, not a telescoping one. It is 4" typical rigid duct work to the outside except for the flex aluminum stuff that is at the big box that I put in. I have never done any of this before, so I read and tried to figure it out as best I could. The box and flexible duct work I got online at an outfit called the Dryerbox. I linked it below. The box is put in upside down compared to their pictures because my vent goes into my basement and exits the side of the house. Be sure to calculate the duct run that is recommended by your dryer manufacturer. Each 90degree bend subtracts 5' of run you have available as recommended by the manufacturer. So you want to have the least amount of bends. I don't think the flex connection counts though, at least it doesn't for my dryer. You can get these flexable auger like brush for cleaning vents. They sell them at the website I linked below and at Lowes. I used it for my old dryer and it works. You are supposed to be able to run the brush using your drill to spin it, from your outside vent. When we cleaned ours it was beneficial to be able to get the brush right into the dryer itself, attaching a vacuum to pull out accumulated lint. There was plenty. Regarding the water, I think where ever you can reach it and get it turned off is the important thing. I plan on turning the water off between uses, now that I have the set in my living area. My old set is in the basement and I didn't give it a thought. This laundry project has taught me a lot about better management of my appliances. I installed Floodchek hoses on my basement set. http://www.floodchek.com/ I bought 2 sets and gave one set to my plumber. He thought they looked like high pressure hoses. He liked them. Regarding your pull out. Could you have a top and a bottom pull out, then a shelving area with door to hide and access the vent, electric, and water? Here is another drawing of my setup. It shows where the vent goes inside the wall and down to the basement. There will be a door on the shelving area where I can pull out the shelves to get to the vent exiting the dryer on the side. I bought a Miele set and there is the option for side venting. There is also my water connection on the right side that isn't shown on this drawing, but is seen in my picture. I also have and outlet near the front of this cabinet for an iron. The bottom area will be open for a laundry basket, though I will have shelving available if I want to use them. The bottom area is where my electric outlets for the W/D are. The one drawer shown will be one of those pull out ironing boards. I do very little ironing but thought it could be handy. My counter between the ironing drawer and the shelving above will not be exposed, instead hidden behind the door (door not indicated on this drawing) When the door is open there will be the vent box and water hoses visible I'm afraid. But it will be all accessible. Current design of my setup, showing vent that is inside the wall: Here is a link that might be useful: The Dryerbox online store.

Proper description is "Stop and waste valve": I would shut it off, then drain it (open the plug, catch water with small bucket), then put the plug back on. After that, check to see if it's leaking. The drip you saw may have been water past the "seat" that's supposed to be drained when closed. Here's info from the website: Typical installations would include applications where shut off is required in-line. If the line they control needs to be drained when the flow is shut off, they may include an auxiliary opening on their side, just past the valve seat. This opening is controlled by a cap screw. When the valve is also closed, the cap may be opened to drain the water out of the non- pressure side of the line beyond that point. This type of valve is sometimes called a Stop and Waste as well as a Stop and Drain. The valve must be mounted on the low end of the run for the pipe to drain properly. * Allows draining of non-pressure side of the valve without removing it from the line * Meets NSF approved Low Lead Standards * For use with water, oil, or air * Heavy Duty Brass Construction * Cast Iron Handle * Solder Connection * Fitting Name : Valve * MFG Model # : 105-603HC * MFG Part # : 105-603HC link: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xh7/R-100152064/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

I'm a big believer in using penetrants and giving them time to work. Spray, give the connection a few taps to jar things around, spray again, walk away. Come back and spray/ tap when you think about it. Most of the time, the un-budgeable will yield with minimal effort. Tomorrow.