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replacing drain pipes

14 years ago

We have gutted a 1930s bathroom and our instructions to the plumber were to replace all pipes he could as they are original although we have not had any leaks. Since, unusually he says, the short 4" pipe from the toilet to the waste stack is steel and not cast iron he wants to leave that. We have no problem with that but he also wants to leave the galvanized 2" waste pipe running to the shower and the sink replacing from the T junction to the sink and the trap only. He gave no reason to my husband for not changing all of the 2" waste pipe and we can see of none except cost. I don't see that he can think that cost is an issue as we have encouraged him to do all he can at this time and we are paying him by the hour. We certainly don't want to have to break up the tiled floor later or the plaster ceiling below. Can anyone think of a reason why not to change these pipes? The shower drains just OK but that maybe the trap as we have only had it snaked out once in 40 years but I can't imagine the waste pipes are that clear either. Before we called him I just wanted to pass it by you very knowledgeable guys. Thanks

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Comments (3)

mahnrut
Original Author
14 years ago
Update. Plumber says he is worried that working any more tan he has to on the 2" waste pipe might cause something in the toilet waste pipe to crack and result in a lot of work.

Here is a link that might be useful:
tim45z10
14 years ago
How about taking a flexible hose say 1/2 inch in diameter. See if you can snake it down. Or Marking the distance on a hand snake, slide it that far in, rotate it as you remove it, check for debris. Try and get a fell for the opening. If that 2 pipe is connected to cast iron. I would leave it too, provided I was comfortable with the present pipe. But I do my own work and not paying.
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In the upper photo where the top galvanized pipe connects to the copper riser on the left there is severe corrosion on the iron pipe threads which appears as if it may be a problem, but aside from that, the corrosion on those pipes is not near as bad as one might think. The green color on the pipes is called "Patina" and it is not a problem at all. In fact, that is the same green patina that gives the statue of liberty her famous green color and in the art world it is highly sought after. At the floor you have a cast iron pipe hub flush with the floor and the copper pipe is set into the cast hub by means of oak and poured lead. You can cut the pipe as you describe and attach your new PVC by means of a rubber Fernco coupling or you could cut the copper pipe flush with the floor, then clean the pipe stub and lead out of the cast iron hub and connect your new PVC into the hub by means of a Fernco PVC x CI donut connector.
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Plumbing new drains and vents can be complicated, but in this case it seems you are just replacing your old shower pan and drain with a new curbless design. You are not really changing the basic plumbing design; you are just trying to get the drain to align. I assume you have fully researched the design for a curbless shower, since that is more complicated to implement than your plumbing changes. In most cases its easier to use a pre-sloped pan covered with a waterproof membrane by Schluter or other good company. They recommend also using waterproofing membrane under the bathroom floor for several feet around the shower, since its hard to predict how much water will end up on the floor when you have a curbless design. This company has a low profile P-trap, but I'm not sure it will be low enough for what you need. https://pvcpipesupplies.com/1-1-2-p-trap-low-profile-dwv-fitting-d706-016.html If the vertical pipe in the wall is accessible and made out of PVC or ABS, it is a relatively simple job to cut it and lower the drain connection. If you are motivated enough to break up concrete, cutting into and splicing a drain pipe should not be that hard for you. Bruce
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mahnrut
Original Author
14 years ago
Decision made and pipes now ALL removed back to the stack including toilet flange assembly. I think what may have persuaded the plumber to do it all was looking through under the wall to the corridor bathroom that has a common wall with the bathroom being remodeled and seeing a leak there (the kitchen ceiling is now down in that area to repair that). Ironically the position of that leak was at the junction of a copper and galvanized pipe. This work was done 5 years ago during a kitchen remodel when the contractor had the ceiling down and saw rusty pipes in the ceiling. He told the plumber to repair what he could but he joined copper directly to the galvanized it seems (probably would have been better to have left it alone in that case). Anyway back to the remodel bathroom. The pipes were really crudded up (see pic)and it has all gone up to the other side of the toilet flange where a piece of 4" pipe is sticking out from the also steel stack although apparently in the basement it is cast iron (all original 1930s). I am not sure how he will join the new plastic pipe but it does not seem to be an issue.

Here is a link that might be useful: 2 1/2 inch galvanized waste pipe removed

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