I'm putting two sinks into a 56" vanity for my girls' bathroom (4 girls share it). I'm installing Kohler Caxton, but can't decide whether to install the small or medium size. I noticed in the Kitchen-Bath store that on the medium Caxton, the granite over-hang was more than I would have expected for an undermount sink, especially at the upper drain hole edge. In effect is to give you a little more counter space. Plus, you couldn't see where the sink met the granite. That "line" was covered by the overhang. The bath shop gave me a pair of templates for each sized sink, I will figure out which works best. We are replacing these really ugly, whipped avacado looking cultured marble shell shaped sinks, which each measure 19" across. The Caxtons measure about 16.5 and 15 inches from side to side. Any change is a good one and will result in more counter space regardless of which sink size I choose.

We would like to convert our old, single sink into a double. I understand I can use the same drain if it isn't over 30" but what needs to be done about the supply lines? Do we need to have a plumber change the pipes or can we do it another way outselves? Thanks so very much, If you are under the UPC (Uniform Plumbing Code) you may not combine two fixtures on the same waste arm. If you are under the IRC (International Residential Code) one center trap may serve up to 3 sinks, lavatories or laundry tubs of the same type, in the same room providing the maximum horizontal separation between any two fixtures measured from the center of the drain openings does not exceed 30" however the trap and fixture arm diameter MUST BE appropriately sized for the combined DFU (drainage fixture unit) load. A lavatory sink is rated at 1DFU therefore your proposed combined DFU load would be 2DFUs. The code standard drain opening size for a bathroom lavatory drain is 1-1/4" and the trap and fixture arm are supposed to be sized the same as the fixture tailpiece, which would also be 1-1/4" and rated for a maximum of 1DFU however, the bathroom lavatory is the only fixture in a residential structure that uses a 1-1/4" trap and fixture arm. The code will allow us to increase the size of the trap and/or fixture arm by one nominal trade size, which would then be 1-1/2". Rather than maintain a complete separate inventory of pipe and fittings for this limited use most plumbers now opt for the code exception and make the fixture arm 1-1/2". The code allows an 1-1/2" diameter horizontal waste line with a ¼" per foot pitch to convey a maximum of 3DFUÂs therefore if your existing fixture arm is 1-1/2" you will be able to connect both sinks to the common fixture arm. If the inside diameter of the existing pipe is 1-1/4" you may not combine both sinks on a common fixture arm. To make the physical connection you would need to use a 1-1/2"- "End Waste kit" or "Center waste kit" in the same manner as connecting a double kitchen sink. The lavatory drain tailpiece is 1-1/4" so you would need to use a 1-1/2"x 1-1/4" reducing ferrule on the inputs to the waste kit. The discharge from the end waste or center waste kit would then go into a 1-1/2" P-trap attached to the fixture arm. For the water supply lines we are in a gray area of the code. The code requires all fixtures except a tub or shower to have a valve at the fixture. One exception to this rule is when we are running a manifold system such as commonly used with PEX. On a manifold system we have individual lines from the manifold to the fixture so we may use the manifold shutoff valve as the fixture shutoff providing the manifold valves are all indelibly labeled to indicate which fixture they control. They make side outlet angle stop valves, which have the normal 3/8" outlet port on the top of the valve and a second 3/8" outlet port on the side. These types of valves are commonly used at the kitchen sink to connect dishwashers or ice maker lines. It would then be a judgment call by your inspector whether you could use a side outlet angle stop and run a line to each sink or whether you would need to install a tee on the water line and separate valves.

It shouldn't be a big deal, but you would have to first remove the old vanity and then open up the wall and do some re-plumbing. You would cap off one drain and one set of hot and cold pipes in the wall. Then you would need to route the other drain and set of hot and cold pipes laterally within the stud space so they would be in the center; this might require notching out one stud, depending on where things are located. Which set of pipes you would choose to cap off might depend on where things were in the wall in relation to the studs: it's possible that one side might be easier to re-route to the center than the other, or one side might be a shorter run to the drain. It's hard to say before you open the wall, but that's the general idea. Once you re-did the plumbing and repaired the sheet rock, you would be ready to install the new vanity. Oh, and if you don't have shutoff valves under the sinks, use this as an opportunity to install a set on the pair of supply lines you will be using. Hope that helps. Feel free to re-post if any of this is vague, or once the wall is open.

For truly cold floors, consider an easier to clean gel mat beside bathtub or shower and/or vanity rather than a rug -- you can always keep smaller water absorbent resistant rugs on had for when your actually need water absorbed. Keeping a gel mat clean means wiping it off and the small rugs can be more easily washed as needed -- needed less often if not always on the floor. Choose gel mats with beveled edges so they're not a tripping hazard. https://www.americanfloormats.com/anti-fatigue-kitchen-mats-marble-surface/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhfP356DW8AIV5_zjBx370wL4EAQYBCABEgIWtPD_BwE