First post. I live on the Space Coast and have a 1/2 acre property, and just bought the empty 3/4 acre lot next to me under an LLC I started in order to bypass the HOA's requirement to build within 12 months. (Want to keep it greenspace in a park-like setting) We have an existing Florida Pool enclosure that I am extending 26'x30' in a couple of months. That will house a turn-key large Aquaponics system bought from endlessfoodsystems.com. It will also have room for a 5'x5' granite top table behind my BBQ kitchen for eating. The Aquaponics system will include a 275gallon fish tank, powering 4 media beds, 6 raft beds, and two wicking beds. In addition to standard filtration of solids, I'll add BioChar to the filter exit that will also assist in removing the nasties. I'm a BIoChar fanatic as well and making my own with a Kon-Tiki cone kiln. Using it for multiple purposes in raised beds, worm bins, and for other uses as well. Fish will be around 50 Blue Tilapia (The only Tilapia allowed in Florida without a special license), and one Pleco catfish. (The Pleco keeps the bottom, sides, and pipes clean) Fish will be fed a combo of pellets and duckweed. It will take about 6 weeks for the systems water to "charge" before adding the fish. Water comes from our existing well and purified through a 500GPD Reverse Osmosis system. Pumps for air and water will be backed up by a 400W Solar system in the event of power failures...or grid down. Once in use, the maintenance of the system is minimal, requiring only a few hours a week, except for planting and harvesting. I'm somewhat surprised at the minimal posts on Aquaponics here, but like BioChar, I think that will logarythmically accelerate as more people learn the benefits, both environmentally, and nutritionally as time passes. My AP system will be based on this diagram: I hope to see more discussions of Aquaponics here soon, and will post my progress in a dedicated post as I get started on the project.Cheers!

I agree. Start with what the DW manufacturer says. Call them too. Dishwasher manufacturers know that all their products will send the drain water uphill a few inches (to a High Loop or to an AIr Gap). Therefore, I conclude, they have put pumps in that drain water by sending it that high as a normal course of operation. Therefore, I conclude, it might cause too much water to be drained if the drain hose is sent downhill upon leaving the DW instead of up first for a local high spot. Too much water being pumped out could mean the water seal is open instead of blocked by water. Plumbers will tell you that water dropping too fast to a P trap down too low can cause the P trap to siphon itself out, and this too can break the water seal, opening the line to sewer gases. The manufacturer will say something about this. Some will spell it out that the drain hose has to go "high " first before going down to the P trap, and some haven't written that out but will still say so over the phone. I'd call the manufacturer instead of relying on internet strangers. -david

Kswl, I'm so sorry, but amazed you've come through this with your sense of humor intact. You have a great GC! Buy his wife flowers. Here in SC we've got a bit of a situation here at the marina. It's gotten down into the teens for a couple of nights running, and while the marina staff turned off the water to the docks Sunday and opened all the valves at each and every spigot on our power stands,the pipes didn't drain sufficiently and there are shattered water pipes on every dock and the main dock. I think they're going to have to replace all the water lines. Meanwhile we have no water to the boats. On our own boat we're having problems with our water pump, and we've got to keep our hot water heater running, because we're afraid our own water lines will freeze. We can't run water continously because our water tank is finite, only half full, and who knows when we'll have a water source again from the dock. I'm ready for this weather pattern to abate.

For the record, as someone else asked, you're asking questions about a large convection oven with moisture plus feature, I believe. However I'm replying based on experience with CSO (combi steam oven). Also, I don't believe the big 30" convection ovens with the moisture plus function are available with a plumbed in option, are you maybe mixing up models and features (or am I)? 1. Almost every day. 2. Hard to say not knowing your particular usage and cooking preferences. Look for a thread on here named "Miele combi steam oven owner's thread". Almost everyone on that thread reports their experience as somewhere between pleasantly surprised to very impressed with the usage they get out of a CSO. My oen experience has been in the middle of those two points. And I don't use it for extravagant things, mostly for comfort foods done with steam. 3. It could be very little work, or maybe not. Two points to pass along, first get the Miele specs (for the drain connection) to one or more plumbers and have them review the details and the requirements. You'll definitely want a good plumber for this. Second point, indirect drain/air gap. Miele's specs use the code words "air gar" which is plumbing speak for "indirect drain." Picture the u-shaped drain hose end from a washing machine that is draped over the inside edge of a utility tub. The air gap between the end of the W/M drain hose and the utility tub drain hole is an air gap and makes it an indirect drain. An experienced plumber recommended this to me, before ever seeing the Miele specs, then when he saw the specs he said, yes this is what you need and want to do. The more I see indirect drains in use elsewhere the more I think this is just right for a steam oven drain. You don't have to drill through cabinet walls, or tap into a D/W or sink drain, or add traps, or worry about flood levels, you drill down to the basement (assuming you have one), feed the steam oven hose (up) through the drill hole, and already having a PVC pipe run to the closest utility tub (or other applicable drain) you're set to go. I waited until the day of the install to make the final drill hole through the floor, eliminates any ambiguity on location and clearances ("your drain hose is kinked, etc., etc., etc.), and had the Miele installers concur on the location. BTW, I saw you mentioned contractors. In my experience even highly experienced general contractors talk to experienced plumbers to get this kind of thing designed and speced out, GCs are usually just not that up on plumbing details and code requirements. Pictures of indirect drains. More info in this thread: http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/2530553/plumbing-a-steam-oven