>> GT, did you ever repeat the test? Yes, twice. And within a point more or less, I got the same results. >> I reread what you were doing up in the thread, and if your irrigation alkalinity was really 15ppm (i.e., rain or distilled water), then a tablespoon of vinegar would've essentially turned your gallon of water into...a gallon of vinegar. Deadly of course for your planties. Ummmm... I do not know what to tell you, except (1) I do not understand how I'd get a gallon of vinegar (is the vinegar effect SOOOOOO strong on distilled water?), but more importantly (2) that I am just a dummy who had read somewhere online that adding vinegar was beneficial to house plants, and so I was doing that because Internet is never wrong. :-) My plants survived "the vinegar era" just fine - despite the vinegar or because of it, I guess we'll never know. They actually got even better during that time, but that may be because Foliage Pro and a grow light and I think a better soil mix were all introduced roughly at the same time. There is another wrinkle that I do not feel comfortable with. The muni report says pH is 6.7 to 9.2 with 7.2 average, but my result was 5.5. Yes, the report is from 2012, and they measure water in the reservoirs (I think), but I measure it off the tap and after about a week of off-gassing. Still, the difference is suspicious and leads me to wonder how reliable those little pH strips are. In fact, if I understand this correctly, both my inconsistency with the muni water report and your question howcome I did not kill my plants can both be explained by inaccurately lower readings of my pH testing strips. For now (since those tests), with the info I have, I turned off the vinegar spigot.

Begonia, Repeat after me_I AM NOT SCARED!!! I swear plants know when you are afraid of them and will take every advantage to die on you. Confidence!!! Now on to your questions: Your soil mix is appropriate for wicking. Some people use a thinner wick for smaller plants and vice-versa. I do not. I like my reservoir go dry for a day or so before I re-fill it to let my plants dry a bit. If the plants become too dry, watering from the top will get the wick going again. You will have to experiment but as you are a confident plant person this will not scare you. Just stick your finger in the soil-if it's soaking, it's too wet but I don't think you'll have this problem. (Spraying the stem is unnecessary but not harmful). And you will have to pat your soil in somewhat. Just don't go at it like you're punching down bread dough. You do not need fancy grow lights. Go to HD and get a warm white and a cool white. Your fixture should have a reflector. (I have been using this combination since 1972.) I think the warm is labeled daylight or sunshine. If you want the reason for this, let me know. It's rather lengthy and it's very late so...you'll just have to trust me. (I can also rhapsody for quite a while on soil mixes in case you are interested). But...I digress...) I replace when my tubes get a dark ring around the ends, (very noticeable) or when growth and blooming start to slow. Be careful with new tubes. They are very strong in the beginning. As you have learned, plants of a genera are not all the same . Each cultivar and even each individual is different and will respond differently to your growing conditions. Just follow good AV growing practices and don't be afraid to experiment. And don't be discouraged when you lose some. We all lose some. Some plants are just naturally weak, some won't like you or your conditions and some are just suicidal. Just chalk it up to experience and move on. A plant that dies gives you room for something new! I have been at this plant business my entire life and there are still violets that refuse to bloom for me. Ex: Gillian. Grows like a weed. Will not bloom. I don't obsess over these non-bloomers. I give them to my neighbor and let her obsess. Instead of individual containers-why don't you get a tray-the kind annuals come in-with no holes. Add egg-crate and place your plants on this with the wicks extending through the egg-crate. This takes care of humidity (Question 4) and you won't have to figure out what containers to use (Question 5). It also makes it much easier to care for your plants when they are all together and all you have to do is water the tray. Let me know if you have more questions! Linda

I water when they are completely dry which takes about 7 days 2 hrs. and 36 min. You don't need to wait longer. If you let them dry out completly, the plants are indanger of getting root mealies, or if the roots dry out completely you are in danger that when you do water they will rot in the 7 days they are sitting in damp soil. We can't grow anything in clay, and I am confused in regards to this question. Do cactus grow in clay? What size pots are being use, do you mean that you are using clay pot, or potting soil? U don't think my response above it correct I think I am mixed up regarding the question. What kind of question is this if a plant is dry you water, Clay soil drys out it is hard to wet again. So please make your self clear, if growing in clay pots and living in hot temps. it will be sooner, becareful of roots burning in very hot climates. So you are growing these plants in 2" pot they will dry out faster. Clay pots are great for the east coast and south gulf bay areas where there is high humidity. In an apartment Pirate Girl will be the best one to respond. We grow our cactus year round here in Calif. We water once a week, because that is how long it takes for them to dry out where we live. We have tested over the years, we have sampled the soil, by turning the pot up side down, they must be watered in the summer thoroughly so the room ball gets the water as well. In the Winter we are extremely careful. The cactus are outside, when it gets rain it may take two weeks to dry out, depending on wind and humidity. We watch weather reports to check and see how soon we can expect rain, if we are expecting rain we do not water, and our plants do not rot. They get plenty of fresh air. Cactus are filled with water as they are succulents, and can go several months without water. Pirate Girl grows plant in her home, she will be the best one to ask. Or anyone from Florida who has high humidity and more warmth. Succulents including the cactus species normally do not like cold and water. I am really curious, are are you growing in clay soil? I am curious where do you live. How much light are your providing, and do the cactus flower for you in the spring? Do not grow Sansevieria , most Kalanchoe, Euphorbia, those are what I can think of right now in the cold. My Jungle cactus, Rhipsalis, Thanksgiving cactus, do not like the cold, and protest, they are in flower now, and hate the rain, not interested in water right now, until after they flower but need low light. Boy was I confused sorry all. I'm human, by the way even at the Huntington we have summer plants and winter planted divided. Bulbs are also in a group. I am still confused who is asking what? Mike little thin tooth picks will not be good for a measurment for dryness use a pencil or chop stick, for the tiny pots just pick them up if dry hang onto them are they may just fly up like a light balloon. Mike another hint, get them all in the same size pot as soon as you can, (when they have roots) never water unless they do, just start them out with damp soil, and wait. Bottom heat will help them to develope roots sooner. I finally caught on that you are a beginner. I thought that you were teasing me, (testing me) and I am sorry if I have offended you. Norma

Dale, I'm glad you initiated this. I will share my results as well. There was absolutely nothing that resembled a controlled study, but the differences were still remarkable. On the day you shared tomato plants with me I came directly home and put them in the ground, along with some others. I installed WOWs on all of these at that time, working with a cap light until about 10:30 that night. It was a particularly laborious task because we have not yet run water to the garden this year. I set up each WOW in a milk crate, filled it at the house, then carried it across the creek. I held my mouth just right, said a prayer then lifted the WOW over the top of the tomato. This is NOT the right way to set up a WOW, but it was all I had available under the circumstances. And obviously, I didn't set them up ahead of time. The following morning, I put many more tomatoes in the ground, but never got around to installing WOWs. (Too exhaused from hauling the WOWs the night before!) The difference in the two groups of plants is remarkable. The WOW plants are a full foot above the device. The others are from 18" to 30" tall, but are not nearly as lush. Plants in both sets have blooms, but there is no question which plants are the healthiest, and most prepared to set fruit. As long as the WOW is wide open (as opposed to closed tepee style)I don't see how it would hurt to leave them on longer. Since you asked me about when to remove them, I have been trying to recall what I have done in the past, not having used WOWS for the last 7 or 8 years. I really don't remember what I have done in the past. And admittedly, my gardening now is on a catch as catch can basis, and no matter what my plan is, things only get done when they get done. What I do recall vividly about using WOWs in the past is planting in mid-March and being able to harvest fully ripe beefsteaks by May 31. It's so much fun to remind myself I was harvesting tomatoes "in May"! My plan this year was to install the WOWs on the cole crops, then move them to the adjacent tomatoes. However, the cole crops were set out two weeks late, when it was already quite warm, and the tomatoes were set out early, so only tomatoes got WOWS. If I ever get around to potting up my peppers, I may add WOWs to them. Time will tell how much I actually get done. Dale, you could have gotten better data by putting WOWs on some, but not on others. Instead, what I believe you did, by installing on all, was give yourself better tomatoes. I'll take better tomatoes over better data any day! Congratulations! Seedmama