Here's our exterior & the corresponding interior photos of our window/door combination using beige/tan windows-- FWIW, similar to you, I thought it would bother me, but it really doesn't. Having all the grids match in color certainly helps. Do note that if you're having transoms over the doors/windows that they are sized different as you can see in my photo--both are 12" transoms by the manufacturer specs, but you can see the obvious difference. The transom window height differential does still bother me & is one of the things I would gladly pay to change--but that's another story. Hope this helps!

I love my floor in my family room. It's Mannington- Heritage Hickory, engineered floor. It comes in several shades. The color we chose is Topaz. I don't have a picture of my family room, but I have a link with a picture of the floor. Mine looks exactly like the picture, so it's probably Topaz in the picture. http://www.designbiz.com/net/BrandIdeaViewPhoto.asp?CompanyID=57502&BrandID=37&PhotoID=87

Thanks, everyone, for your comments. I have to say that I feel so relieved reading that you don't care for the ring pulls, I guess because I wasn't 'feeling it' with them either! Really, I could care less if it's considered MCM or contemporary - whatever. I love les's idea of wood pulls to match the dark wood and DH liked it to, so I will explore that idea. K9arlene, your point is a good one! We have already bought this bed and are using it. I guess we don't prop up in bed much, because it hasn't bothered us. We are really happy with this bed. And I will use ellendi's suggestion to put firm pillows in our decorative shams and bolster pillow - good idea! Sherrmann - I would love to see a pic, but it's probably not easy to get one. Here is my main inspiration pic, although I kind of did the opposite coloring. It has teeny tiny knobs, so I obviously strayed in a big way from it. Maybe I will get some samples like these, but I don't know. Thanks again, everyone, and keep the comments coming!

IKEA in my last home: This photo is of a 7 year old kitchen, the door style is no longer available. The kitchen was tiny, 9' wide by about 11' that I opened into a dining room to make it more functional. The ceiling was slightly less than 8' in some areas, very sloped, and as you can see, the uppers went within an inch or two to the ceiling. I set the bases higher than usual, and the space under the cabinets after 2" light molding was about 17" which was adequate, but not generous. It was a very functional layout, I cooked and baked several times a week, and the cabinets interiors were pristine when I sold the house. No failed hardware, no chipped laminate inside the cabinet boxes where pots/pans/knives were stored and I never lined a shelf or a drawer in this kitchen. The shelf where I stored oils cleaned up with soap and water with no residual yellowing or gumminess. Cabinet fronts had a tough baked on finish that cleaned with soap and water, or BONA finished wood spray and a towel and were not streaky. The cabinet doors did occasionally scratch, though not in a way that was not to be expected from wood, and I tried several brands of brown children's markers and found the brand that matched best, and kept a few in one of the cabinets so when I cleaned and noticed a scratch, I could fill it in. Though I did use the 39" uppers, you should know that I rarely used the things stored on the highest shelves and didn't really know what was on some shelves until I moved because the shelves were too high for me, or my over 6' relatives without using a chair. I was mounting to old cracking plaster with irregularly spaced studs on a very sloped floor so I screwed a leveled 2x4 to the bottom of the wall where the bottom of the base boxes were to rest, and a 1x4 behind where the top of the base boxes were to be and used the IKEA provided screws to mount the base box brackets to the 1x4. It was very sturdy when done and the granite guys were appreciative and had no issues with installation. The cabinets are trimmed out in standard end panels, and the peninsula has a 3'x8' panel trimmed to cover it. The store associates drew pictures for me to show me how to use the trim they provided. I had a miter saw that I rented for the day for the light rail, and used a jigsaw for the rest with a laminate blade and masking tape to prevent pulling the veneer off when cutting. What is different today compared to when I bought the 2004 kitchen is the boxes above were made in Germany and now they are made in the US. I put in IKEA boxes in my new house and the quality is the same, as far as I can see. The door fronts above were made in Spain and now they are made in the US. The hinges and drawer hardware are still German Blum, but now soft close is included in the price, though you can purchase the soft close pieces separately, and take them off your order if you wish. The new version of the lazy susan is an improvement over the old one. I loved the appearance of the slim door pulls visually, but functionally, the ends were square and things used to get caught on them as I went by, but that is not an IKEA issue, per se. IKEA 39 CABINETS ARE 39 1/8. If you ceilings are 92 and you are set on 39, you can fudge the bases down a bit and still have 17" below uppers to the counter tops. As long as you guys aren't tall, you maybe ok with this as most appliances are under 16. I do not recommend this, I would personally go with the 30" boxes mounted higher and then extend the molding to the ceiling, I think this would give the room more visual height, but there are designers on this site that could give you the best insight for how to do this. I have had three IKEA kitchens now with various levels of customization, and I would say that if you can use the boxes they have, it is the best deal, and if you can find a door front you like, the deal gets even better. There are enough panel sizes available to customize with.