Here's some info on what EXEL is and what makes it work. Phosphorous Acid Fungicides Explained by John Hartman and Kenny Seebold, Extension Plant Pathologists Kentucky fruit and vegetable growers may have noticed that phosphorous acid has been listed for management of several fruit diseases in recent editions of the commercial tree fruit and small fruit spray guides and management of several vegetable diseases on recent product labels. Some County Extension Agents and growers have been curious to know how they work. Parts of the following material was adapted from an insightful article written by Annemiek Schilder, Michigan State University Plant Pathologist, and was published in the Michigan State University Fruit Crop Advisory Team Alert, Vol. 20, No. 5, May 10, 2005. Phosphorous acid fungicides Recently, a number of new fungicides that have phosphorous acid as the active ingredient have come on the market. Other names sometimes used for this group are phosphonates or phosphites. Commercial products in this group may include ProPhyt, Phostrol® and Agri-Fos®. Aliette® (fosetyl-Al), an older fungicide, is the prototype for this group of fungicides. However, the long-standing patent on Aliette® had prevented similar fungicides from being developed until recently. In Australia, where the patent did not apply, growers have been using the phosphorous acid fungicides for over a decade. Phosphorous acid is not fertilizer. The term "phosphorous acid" should not be confused with phosphoric acid or phosphorus (P), a fertilizer component. In fertilizers, P is normally found in the form of phosphoric acid (H3PO4), which readily disassociates to release hydrogen phosphate (HPO4-2) and dihydrogen phosphate (H2PO4 - ). Both of these ions may be taken up by the plant and are mobile once inside the plant. Phosphorous acid is H3PO3. A single letter difference in the name of a chemical compound can make a major difference in its properties. Phosphorous acid releases the phosphonate ion (HPO3 2; also called phosphite) upon disassociation. Phosphonate is easily taken up and translocated inside the plant. Phosphorous acid does not get converted into phosphate, which is the primary source of P for plants. Because phosphorous acid and its derivatives do not get metabolized in plants, they are fairly stable and probably contribute little or nothing to P nutritional needs of the plants. Some researchers have investigated the ability of phosphorous acid to act as a nutrient source for plant growth and found that P deficiency symptoms developed with phosphorous acid as the sole source of P. This means that although phosphorous acid can control diseases, it is not a substitute for P fertilization. The inverse is also true: phosphate is an excellent source of P for plant growth, but is unable to control diseases other than improving the general health of the crop. So applying high amounts of P fertilizer will not work as a disease control measure. Diseases managed with phosphorous acid. Researchers have found that phosphorous acid fungicides are especially effective against Oomycete pathogens, such as Phytophthora, Pythium, and downy mildews in a number of crops. Our fruit spray guides list Phytophthora collar rot and root rot of tree fruits, blueberries, and brambles; strawberry red stele and leather rot; and grape downy mildew as targets for phosphorous acid fungicides. Phosphorous acid is labeled for use on brassicas (broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower); cucurbits; edible legumes; Solanaceous crops (eggplant, pepper, potato, tomato, and tobacco); onions; and a number of leafy vegetables for management of diseases caused by Phytophthora, Pythium, Rhizoctonia, and Fusarium spp. Downy mildews of these crops are also listed on product labels. Materials containing phosphorous acid, in general, have performed best against Phytophthora blight and downy mildews. Preventive applications were more effective in reducing season-long severity of disease than those applied after disease onset. Phosphorous acid has a direct and possibly an indirect effect on these pathogens. It inhibits a particular metabolic process (oxidative phosphorylation). In addition, some evidence suggests that phosphorous acid has an indirect effect by stimulating the plants natural defense response against pathogen attack. This probably explains the much broader spectrum of activity observed in many fungicide efficacy trials. In fruit crops, it has been found, for instance, that ProPhyt had efficacy against downy mildew, Phomopsis cane and leaf spot, and black rot (but not much against powdery mildew) in grapes. There is also evidence of activity of these compounds against anthracnose in blueberries. The phosphonate ion is highly systemic and fairly stable in plants. The systemic activity allows them to be applied as foliar fungicides for prevention of Phytophthora and Pythium root rots. They may also display some curative activity. In general, applications every 14 days seem to be effective in grapes, but follow label directions. These fungicides are sold as solutions of potassium and/or sodium salts of phosphorous acid. To compare them, one should look at the phosphorous acid equivalent, which should be listed on the label. Fungicide precautions. Phosphorous acid fungicide prices range from about $25 to $35 per gallon, and the application rate ranges from 2 to 5 pt/ acre ($6.25 to $22 per acre, depending on the product and rate). Under high disease pressure, higher rates may need to be used and spray intervals tightened. These fungicides are formulated in salt form, so care must be taken not to exceed a certain concentration, as crop injury may result. In addition, if the concentration is too high, the pH may become so low that in tank mixes with copper products (particularly copper hydroxide such as Kocide), too much copper will become available and result in crop injury. I just ordered some AgriFos and intend on using it as a foliar. As you can see from the above article it's hard to explain the greening up of Ray's tomato plants and more research is needed. What interested me in EXEL is it's organic nature and it would make an excellent partner when teamed up with Actinovate. Using Actinovate as a subsoil fungicide and EXEL as an foliar fungicide that would have a faster knock-down effect on fungus and it's systemic properties. My only concern with EXEL is as a soil drench as I do not know the effect it will have on the microorganisms in the rhizophere, ie mycorrhiza. Further study is required. Ray definitely like you hand held electric sprayer. I bought something similar from the spray-n-grow folks but it had a quart container that was separate from the spray head and connected with a tube. Get yourself some NIMH batteries with a charger rather than using alkaline batteries and it will save you a few bucks in the long run. I would like to thank Ray for his interest in testing some of the products I have mentioned to him. It helps us all to have someone test these products in an unbiased manner and report the results for everybody to see. You are doing us all a great service. Ami

I have what I believe is the first generation HE3t, purchased in 2003, and on my machine, the heater only comes on in the Heavy Duty, Whitest Whites, or Sanitary cycles. The only time the heater will be used on the Normal cycle if the stain treat option is selected. On the HD or WW cycles, the temperature is "measured" one minute after the fill finishes. If the soil level is set to light, the heater will not come on ever. If the soil level is set to normal, the heater comes on if the water temp is below the set point (77 cold, 104 warm, 127 hot), but will only stay on up to 7 minutes. If the soil setting is high, then the heater will stay on up to 16 minutes. If the heater did not need to come on after the first minute, it will not come on later in the wash cycle, even if the temperature dips below the set temp. If the heater turned off before it times out, it will not turn back on during the wash cycle. If the stain treat option is turned on, then the wash cycle is extended (on all soil levels) and the heater will stay on longer. It will, however, not turn back on if it turned off due to reaching the set temperature.

Does anyone have a problem with smaller loads becoming unbalanced. I've owned the washer 2 weeks and have done approximately 15 loads and so far 2 have given me the uE error and extended the wash to rebalance the load. One load didn't recognize it was unbalanced but the tub was almost violently swaying side to side, the sheets were balled up on one side, and there wasn't enough water in there to move the clothes at all. This was only one set of queen sheets. I stopped the cycle, redistributed everything and the pressed the extra water button. It seemed a little better after this, but it's frustrating that I find myself needing to watch every load to make sure it's working properly. To me it seems the washer works better with larger loads, but does not work so well with smaller loads. Has anyone else come to this conclusion? Also, my washer has never had any jet spray action, where it's spinning very fast and the water is shooting from the top onto the clothes. Is this normal? Should I see this on every wash? Another issue I'm having is I was using powder detergent (only half of what is recommended by Tide on the box)...and after each wash cycle I stopped it and looked in the dispenser and over half of the detergent was still inside. This happened on every wash, cold, warm, hot, it didn't matter. I emailed LG and attached a picture and their response was to switch to liquid detergent. And my last question is, has anyone noticed the tub "creeking?" This started about 5 washes ago and it creeks like an old rocking chair. I can hear it from the next room with the door closed. I'm wondering if I need to have a service person come out.

I have the Liebherr CS1200 which I have had since Nov 2015. No issues at all. Super quiet and produce is kept fresh. If it failed on me I’d buy another Liebherr in a heartbeat. Miele is known for washers and 4 years into owning one and I have a leak (waiting to be diagnosed and fixed), so I‘d stay away from Miele since they are not even known for refrigerators. Since these are high end fridges you tend to see more complaints than praise. Who has time to go write a review praising an appliance? But if you have a problem, you need a way to vent. :)