For a jetted tub used as a shower, it has to have an integral tile flange. That allows the wall cladding to overhang and any water that hits the wall to not go behind your walls. There aren't that many in that size that are inexpensive. It will need a specialized drain, and, if you want to spend any time in the tub, a supplemental heater so the water doesn't cool off so fast. Since it's a tub/shower, the wall cladding will need to be redone to be waterproof into the tub. It's possible, if the build is recent, and it was done with the proper vapor barrier behind it, that only one row of the tile would need to be pulled in order to replace the tub. But, I wouldn't count on that. I'd count on having to replace all of the wall cladding in the alcove. That can be as cheap as a plastic surround for around $100 or cheap tile with the proper vapor barrier for probably $150 or so. The first is the easiest and the least chance of leaking. The second will read as more upscale, but you have to be sure your contractor understands about the vapor barrier and correct materials to use to tile this (NOT mastic.) And since you have that torn out, it would be foolish to try to keep your current control valves for the bath unless they are also very new. New safety standards are in place for anti scald mechanisms. So, you will need a new shower/bath faucet and valve. Then you will need the electrical line run from the panel to the location for the whirlpool pump and supplemental heater. That location is usually opposite the drain side of the tub. You will need to be able to site an access panel that is removable to be able to get to the electrical innards here. That can be from an adjacent room, or from a hidden panel on the tub itself. All in all, you might be able to get all of the needed materials for 2-3K if you shop the box stores carefully and find some bargains. The danger to that is that if you are inexperienced, you don't know if you're buying quality or crap. They sell both. And that's one reason that it would be simpler to let the pro pick the products after you tell him the features that you want. Then you've got to pay the contractor labor to install all of that. The electrician's price will depend on how difficult it will be to access the panel and run the wire to the location. For that, it's a really good thing you are on a crawlspace! That makes it cheaper for both the electrician and the plumber. On the whole, I'd expect your project to cost between 5-7K, depending on location, and if you have no DIY skills to bring to the table and have to hire professionals for the whole job. And be sure that you hire someone that is licensed and insured to be in your home, and will pull the proper permits to get the job inspected with your code office. Some handyman guy isn't licensed to do electrical of that nature, and while he might be able to do the demo and get the tub in place and glue on the plastic surround, it's unlikely that he'll have the right insurance to deal with a large job like that, and thus probably wont' want to pull permits and be inspected. They are usually limited to smaller jobs like simple fixture replacements like a faucet or light. Which this isn't. Just remember, you are doing a project that combines electricity and water. You really have to know what you're doing here! A small General Contractor should be able to do the complete job, and also carry the needed papers. And he should have no problem with the code guys coming in to inspect his work either. If he does, then he's not the right person for the job.

Thanks Emily! Someone in the SEO Department at Houzz unlocked the discussion and now it is visible again. The seamless approach helps when you have no bullnose tile available but really does not address the question of how far. This I think depends on many things. I do not like sliver cuts. So if your using a large 12"x12" tile coming out 1" - 2" leaves and 2"x12" tile cut. This is a little small. When possible I like to see 1/3 tile cuts or 1/4 tile cuts. So 3"or 4" looks better. The biggest hurdle with tubs is the tile flange lip and getting the backboard just right. Too often the backer board is lipped over the flange and the tile gets set really heavy. Then a tile guy uses a 3/8" tile edging like Schluter but has 1/4"-1/2" of thin-set behind the tile. So you get both exposed thin-set and a tile edging. This looks like crap. If the wall to the tub is out of plumb say 1/8" from top to bottom it often looks better to follow that plane and use a 1/2" tile edging. Then you can get thin-set under the tile. Keep the edging tight to the wall and not see any thin-set under the tile edging. We I do use a tile edging (which is rarely) I set them first with a few daps of silicone and then top it with some Ardex 8+9. This turns the edging into a capillary break at the wall.

Before cutting anything out,see if panel in front (next to your feet as you step in tub) is screwed on to alow easy removal. Telling you how to repair cutout in plywood is simple,it's the doing part that can be difficult. I'll tell you how,then you tell me how to do your job ( taxes if you are a cpa,cut and style hair if you are a hair dresser,fly airplane,play violen,coach football or what ever is your profession. Use cutout,make a template or use cutout as pattern for new piywood of same thickness to fill hole. Lay replacement part on a sheet of 3/4" plywood and trace the outline with red pencil, Draw a blue line 2 or more inches outside red tracing and another blue line 2 inches inside red tracing. Cut out both blue lines to complete the "backer plate". If backer place can be wiggled through hole you are ready to glue it in place. If backer plate will not pass through hole,split backer plate. Apply Titebond II or Titebond III according to directions on bottle then clamp and/or screw securly in place. After glue cure's,glue repair piece to backer plate and you are ready for tile. After repairing plywood you need help with tile let me know. I will tell you how to set & grout tile if you tell me how to waltz.

https://www.build.com/product/summary/1702188?uid=4114001&jmtest=gg-gbav2_4114001&inv2=1&&source=gg-gba-pla_4114001!c1713577916!a66006362854!dc!ng&gclid=Cj0KCQiAmKiQBhClARIsAKtSj-lk7kWuYmodUMejRfth1GQSujncBn5D-nCNxcbA6mwRPrmDqx13yvUaApnEEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds I see you're in Canada. That bathtub is available with black trim on the site posted for less money, however, I don't know how difficult it might be for you to purchase it in Canada