Are you wiping the tip of the moisture meter between readings? You need to. Don't think you need to take a moisture reading often. Relax, enjoy, keep reading. All of us were newbies once. Rosie

You need to step back and take an other picture. My guess is its 5/8. Have you done a bucket test yet? You should call your local water company they will have it on file. Aslo what are your gallons per minute and pounds per square inch?What size is the line coming in? Is the incoming line pvc, poly or steel?

The direct buried water line from the municipal main or well to the structure is technically defined as the "Service Line" Under the UPC (Uniform Plumbing Code) you may use; Asbestos Cement Pipe, Brass Pipe, Copper Pipe-types K-L & M in both hard drawn rigid lengths and continuous roll pipe. CPVC pipe, Ductile Iron Pipe, Galvanized Steel Pipe, PE Tubing(Polyethelene tubing-commonly called roll poly or black poly pipe), PEX plastic tubing,PVC pipe Under the IRC (International Residential Code) in addition to those materials listed for the UPC, you may also use; ABS Pipe, PB Pipe(Polybutelene Pipe) and PEX-AL-PEX pipe. In the real world, I doubt if you could even find a source of supply for Asbestos Cement Pipe and while it could be said to have an infinite service life the labor & material cost of brass pipe makes it cost prohibited. Prior to the invention of plastic pipe Galvanized iron pipe and ductile iron pipe were the mainstays of the industry, but here again, due to the cost of metals and the high degree of labor required to install them, they are also considered cost prohibitive, not to mention that they are highly subject to mineral scaling that will effectively reduce their working diameters in a relatively short time. It must also be noted that when running iron pipe under a slab the pipe must be machine wrapped and all joints must be field wrapped to the same level of protection. While the IRC does allow the use of PB pipe due to the extrememly high incidence of failure in the fittings there were massive class action suites against it in the late 1980's and early 90's and I don't know any reputable plumbers who will risk using it. PVC, CPVC and rigid Hard Drawn Copper Pipe are approved under both codes, but those are rigid length pipes which would require a joint every 20' and at each change in direction. Understanding that most failures occur at joints it would then stand that a continuous roll material that is free from joints might prove to be a better choice. The choices then come down to PE Pipe (black poly), PEX pipe and roll copper pipe. All of these materials are available in 100ft rolls so you could make your entire run free of excess joints. Roll pipe is also much more forgiving if your trenching is uneven, although all pipe laid in a trench should be sand padded both under the pipe and above it before backfilling. For economy and proven service life my personal choice would be PE Pipe (black poly) with brass barb fittings and stainless steel hose clamps on the fittings but be careful here, in some jurisdictions they require a minimum of 10' of copper pipe in direct contact with earth to insure the water system is electrically grounded and in one jurisdiction near me they require all service pipe to be copper. It should also be mentioned that when copper pipe is run under a slab all joints must be brazed, not soldered. Personally, I braze all copper joints intended for direct burial. If you will submit a list of all the plumbing fixtures in your house, I.E. sinks, tubs, WC, laundry hookups etc, I will be glad to work up the load and determine the proper size of line needed for your structure.

Per code the curb stop valve is the official demarcation between the municipal suppliers lines and the homeowners lines. The line from the curbstop to the "Main Water Shutoff Valve" at the structure is defined as the "Supply line". The Main Water Shutoff Valve is the official point of demarcation between the supply line and the distribution lines and the main water shutoff valve MUST Be capable of shutting off the flow to all loads including irrigation. The queston then becomes, where is the Main Water Shutoff Valve located? If the house has a basement the water Service Line will normally enter the basement through the footer wall and the Main Water Shutoff valve will be placed within 3ft of the entry point (some codes allow 6ft). If the house is built on slab or raised foundation in a cold climate the Service line will pass through the footer then stub up into a utility room within the structure. If the house is on a slab or raised foundation in a warm climate where freezing is not an issue the Main Water Shutoff valve may be installed below grade on the outside orf the structure within 3ft of the point where the line enters the footer wall. When connecting an irrigation system to the distribution system you are required to have a zone valve that will isolate the irrigation system, plus you are required to have a backflow preventer on the irrigation line and the irrigation line must rise vertical to a point that is a minimum of 6" higher than the elevation of the highest irrigation head and there must be an air gap on the top of the riser.