On the other hand... I guess the pipe dope could be the cause of the blockage. If I remember correctly, the pressure of the gas in the pipe is actually very low...less than the pressure created when blowing bubbles through a straw in a glass of milk. If there is a blockage of pipe dope, the gas pressure likely is too low to clear the blockage.

Pieinsky & Bob Brown are on the mark when it comes to high SEER units. I ask any rational person, does it make sense to Rate season energy efficiencies based on an 82-F outside & 80-F inside temps which is a mere 2-F degree differential. A mere 2 degree temp drop virtually eliminates the latent load humidity problem. I know they claim with a Variable Speed Blower, etc., etc., they can somehow get thwe humidity down. Well, maybe but prove it to me in those conditions. The SEER of a system is determined by multiplying the steady state energy efficiency ratio (EER) measured at conditions of 82°F outdoor temperature, 80°F dB and 67°F wB indoor entering air temperature by the Part Load Factor (PLF) of the system. (The PLF is supplied by the government.) Consider the criteria being used for their SEER formulas. Air conditioner EER ratings, and BTUH Tons of Cooling Capacity ratings on Air Conditioning units are rated at an outdoor temperature of 95°F, and an indoor 80ºF dB 67ºF WB or, a 50% Relative Humidity. The larger coils & smaller Btuh compressor cause a higher pressure/temperature resulting in increased Volumetric efficiency for the smaller compressor's capacity at 82-F ambvient & 80 indoor temp. At 82-F outdoors our homes in the Midwest are well into the comfort zone until late afternoon, etc., fans could keep us comfortable. Rate the SEER at 95, 100 & 105-F ambient & 76-F indoor dry bulb with a 55% Relative Humidity & watch the numbers SHIFT! Additionally, how about a 62% outdoor Relative humidity, with those outdoor indoor temp spreads & the high SEER's higher pres/temp E-Coil it would never control the humidity. Is it against the law for contractors' to rmove the smaller compressors & install an oversized compressor like we used to have 40 years ago? udarrell _ 2007 Here is a link that might be useful: udarrell.com

I don't foresee 4 inches of topsoil in your future. Looking closely at the walkway there is some bit of a drop off down to the soil level, but it looks like you could bring in a few bags of topsoil to even that out over toward the middle of of the yard. If you bring in 4 inches you will definitely change the way water drains off of your property. If it drains back into your basement you will regret paying for that extra soil. I don't see a need for a lot of soil. Your clay soil is already being fixed by all the roots from the weeds. Those roots are a gold mine. What I would do is weed eat the existing weeds down to about 4 inches tall and keep them mowed at your mower's highest setting. Even a weed patch can look much better when it gets regular mowing (ask me how I know that). You will find you have a mix of grassy plants and broadleaf plants (clover, dandelion, etc.). Then what I would do is spray the yard with something like Weed-b-Gon to kill the broadleaf weeds. You're on a compressed schedule, so all this has to happen immediately. After the weed killer you should be left with grassy plants which are well adapted to your area. Keep mowing weekly until you notice the grass has stopped growing. At that time, fertilize the "lawn" with a high nitrogen, fast release fertilizer. Urea is good if you can find it. This will set up the grass to awaken healthy next spring. Then in the spring, after you have mowed real grass for the second time, then spot spray any broadleaf weeds you see. The grass should come in fast and furious with the late fall fertilizer. You may have to mow twice a week to keep up with it. Some time in late May you should notice the grass slows down and is not growing as fast. That is the time to fertilize for the first time in 2019. I usually target the end of May for that. Organic fertilizer is great, but any chemical fertilizer works, too. If you need grass seed, I would tend to stay away from typical lawn grasses and go with a prairie grass adapted to your area. I would look at the many varieties of wheatgrass. Talk to some livestock ranchers to find out what grows well for them. The main difference between what they do and what you are going to do is you will be mowing every week. Some prairie grasses can handle that and some cannot. You will find that niche grass eventually. What is the grass growing in the pathway across the street?

It appears that you have a shut-off so you’re pretty well set. Since you’re uncomfortable, please have a plumber properly distance your devise away from your home and provide correct adapter and hose. It isn’t a big job. Enjoy.