we used those IKEA counters in our mudroom and stained them dark then used high gloss poly to finish - it's not at all the same look but they have a high shine and we've had no problems at all - even with them getting wet etc. You could always use a low sheen poly instead. We did have to prep them pretty well with heavy sanding because they come sort of pre-oiled. Did this 5 years ago and we still love them.

Smart not to use the tung oil. We finished our floors with tung oil, and the flooring guy said the first time they did a floor with it they had to rush his brother to the ER.

We used Good Stuff for Wood. Don't think it would be a problem, but maybe you could research or give them a call.

A description at Grizzly.com says "For bare wood surfaces, this fast drying synthetic oil has been formulated to enhance the natural look of wood. The dry film is non-toxic, alcohol resistant and FDA approved for food contact."

Here is a link that might be useful: Link to GSFW

celineike - I am glad you still like yours. It is kind of a budget option but I have always liked them. DH is not that thrilled but I am hoping he will be happy with the finished product.

antss - I kept hearing people say don't mineral oil, use Waterlox. Mineral oil is fine with me.

Holy Cow, allison0704! I thought maybe I was making too big of a deal out of it. Thank you for the link. I am going to look into it.

we did something with a little of both. we finished the underside of ours with waterlox so they would resist any chance at any damage from our nearby (not under this particular slab of counter) dishwasher. Then we did a beeswax and mineral oil combo that we bought on ebay. it lasts longer than straight mineral oil, smells nice and didn't leave my soapstone (which i use it on too) all slickery like straight oil. I don't have a link but if you search beeswax here it's easy to find.

Thanks. I googled the mineral oil/beeswax combo and it took me right to food safe finishes on the FineWoodworking website.

Dumb question, but can I still use that mineral oil and or beeswax and stain it?

Following a recommendation at Ikeafans, I used Rockler Woodworking's Salad Bowl Finish - it results in a sheen, not a high gloss like Waterlox, which was more to my taste. Apply with a rag, lightly, lightly sand between coats. I did 6, but they were really simple to do.

Two years later, I haven't reapplied any, and nothing stains: red wine blobs left overnight, oil, water. It's great, and as you can tell from the name - entirely food safe.

sara - that sounds like a good product. I am so happy to have so many good choices. I really want to finish it myself so I can claim at least one DIY part of the kitchen.

His brother was allergic to peanuts, I know. I wouldn't want to take a chance. There is a salad bowl product on the link too. Worth looking into.

A couple of posters mentioned Waterlox, it is made with Tung oil.

I'm getting ready to stain/waterlox my IKEA BB (I got birch) Island top. Actually, I'm going to use aniline dye...as in all the reading I've done about staining birch that gives the best result. But I know other GWers have stained/treated the beech or oak with beautiful results. Leave it to me to pick the wood that is hardest to finish...I'm going for a high end look on not a lot of $$!

We are using Waterlox on the cabinets. Two things to know --first, the Waterlox really accentuates the contrast between the dark and light in the grain. Really makes it pop. Much more than the old poly finish we had before. Second, the Waterlox comes in an original and a satin finish. You use the satin at the end and it takes down the gloss considerably. Also slightly reduces the contrast in the grain.

I also think that Waterlox has tung oil in it. It may be totally processed out but I was a little worried to even go that route. (I totally blame DH's genes for the nut allergies). I have seen so many nice finishes done with it and I was almost thinking there were not any other good choices.

jalsy6 - so the birch has a tighter grain so it doesn't take the stain as well? I am making a big note to myself. High end not high $$$ sounds good to me.

It is great to hear so many people using butcherblock. I can't wait to see more finished pics.

I used General Finishes Salad Bowl Finish (bought from Rockler) on unstained Ikea butcherbock - love how it looks but it is getting scratched (not bad though) I expect patina and I can always wipe on a refresh coat when it get to looking too grundy. This is my main baking center and I'm not shy about using it.

I love the look, and it was so easy to apply. I did both the top and underside before mounting the counter top.

Funny - I just used this picture for the thread about canisters - but it is also the best one I have showing the counter top!

"I kept hearing people say don't mineral oil,"

so what,

doesn't mean they are correct, or wrong, or have any idea about anything.

Mineral oil HAS been used successfully and safely for a long time on butcherblocks. This doesn't mean that it is the correct product or the best product for YOUR wooden top or situation. Lots of people throw around butcher block to mean all wood tops. Butcher block has traditionally been end grain maple and mineral oil is great for this.

I don't know if it has to do with the grain, but birch is notorious for "blotching" with wiping stains. So I've read all the posts, and I'm hoping I'll get a decent result with this crazy multi-step process I've pieced together. I made the mistake of buying the birch and cutting it before deciding I wanted to stain it. In hindsight I should have gotten the beech - takes stain better from what I've read. I'll let you know how it turns out - BTW, we plan on not using it for direct food contact...

macybaby - that countertop looks amazing! I love IKEA.

antss - I hear you. Mineral oil would be pretty darn easy, even for me. I think I am going the IKEA route but don't know if that makes a difference. I have not even asked my GC about it yet but I probably need to.

Have to admit, if I were doing just the BB in my kitchen I would probably go the easy route and mineral oil. We only found and tried the beeswax/mineral oil combo because we have soapstone as well and I PERSONALLY don't like the way the mineral oil residue leaves my soapstone counters feeling. I didn't want a shiny Waterlox finish on top of our BB. Just a personal choice about the look I was after. The combo works nicely for us since I can use it on either surface and it lasts longer on the soapstone than straight oil. Straight oil seems to flash off the soapstone in a short time where the combo lasts nicely with none of the greasy coating that I personally don't like on my fingers.

Thanks doggonegardener. The details of your experience are very helpful.

Maybe mineral oil is the easiest and the safest bet. I wonder if a lot of products still have tung oil in them. I know I will have to research every product carefully. There won't be serious food prep going on but there will be food placed on the counter.

I really appreciate all of the input. I know my kitchen is going forward but it still has not hit me yet. It has been so very long in coming.