I went looking for images of those elements. Ribbed glass panels in cabinet doors is easy enough. Here's one in a bathroom vanity: Ribbed glass (or ''seeded'' glass) is also often found in period light fixtures: As for marquetry countertops, if you asked most kitchen cabinet makers for such, I imagine they would gape blankly at the gabbling woman. But there are plenty of companies doing stock and custom hardwood marquetry inlays using CNC laser cutters. Here's the thing - they are doing it in floors. Google ''hardwood floor inlay'' and see. Yes, many of the rosettes are infeasible for a 26'' counter, but look for the ''border'' designs - or create your own. Assemble a 26'' wide section of inlaid ''floor'' on a 3/4'' plywood substrate, encase it in Waterlox, and I do believe you'd have yourself a marquetry countertop. Another option - perhaps cheaper - is stenciling on hardwood, of which this is an example. And so is this What else? Beveled glass is readily available, as is chrome countertop edging, and any furniture or auto upholstery shop can cover a panel of 1/8'' plywood in soft butterscotch leather framed in silver studs (maybe not actual silver, but close enough). I don't know exactly what version of Art Deco you are headed for, or if you even like butterscotch, but the point is, you are not doing yet another white kitchen, you're doing something that isn't being done by the mainstream, so the ordinary kitchen sources are not making this stuff. Sure, there is cool Art Deco hardware around, but what passes for ''Art Deco'' kitchen cabinetry in the online catalogs is . . . disappointing. You are going to have to make it, or at least source it, yourself - and I think if you're comfortable outside the painted lines, you can. You'll find yourself hiring a floor guy to work on a countertop, hunting down the local hot rod upholstery shops, telling your cabinet maker to fit bathroom vanity faces to kitchen cabinet boxes - they'll still look at you like you're crazy, but you'll know you're not. Go for it, girl!

The wall color is SW Ramie. The chair was my grandmothers, and it is just sort of a placeholder right now. I have been searching for new chairs. I would really like to get 2 chairs, but I am unsure how to arrange everything. I would also like to get a new rug--I've been coveting a real hand-knotted forever. The current rug is very nice, 100% wool Couristan machine woven. It is in the same line as My3dog's lovely living room rug. They have been selling this line of rugs in the last year at Tuesday morning for less than half price. It doesn't come off quite as pale in person. I want to eventually move it into my bedroom, where it will be perfect. Does anyone have recommendations for a rug? What color scheme? I really like some of the orientals that are a bit more modern without a really tight or busy pattern. Something maybe like this: This rug is from Williams Sonoma home, and is way out of my price range at over $2K. Is it possible to get a hand-knotted for around $1K? I need at least an 8x10.

I would hang the two prints as you showed in the second to last mockup (with the four little pieces around them, only don't use those). Then I would get two wall-mounted, plug-in style lamps to hang on either side of the prints, to give you light over the couch and end tables without the clutter of lamps there. Maybe something like this? I like the modern aesthetic, and how the curve of the back plate picks up on the curves in the artwork. ROBERT ADLER LAMP I would stick with the first rug. The flowing effect of the rug is a nice balance for the very angular feel of the couch and loveseat.. Consider this pillow from Pier 1. Notice how the flower pattern echoes the flowers in the prints and also the subtle background flowers that you almost don't see in the print. Plus it pulls down the warmer tones from the print onto the cooler color of the couch/loveseat. floral pillow

I don't have a functioning camera right now to make an electronic photo file, but will remark that it is easiest inside a nice cabinet to use combinations of pex tubing and push to connect fittings such as Sharkbite brand (among many others) to avoid sweat soldering damage. All that is needed is a means to cut the pex to a clean flat end. Mistakes are easily remedied by using a different size piece of pex. Adapters exist to go from the pex to the fitting that dangling faucet hoses use. 3/8 poly line along with John Guest type push to connect fittings will be good for RO lines or such. Pex and poly are at their limit when used for pressurized water at boiling temperatures, so the hot water source in the house needs to be under some form of temperature control. A boiler type of water heater with potential for overshoot to 220 or so would be a risk in my view without a working moderator (required anyway by code). Some water chemistries tend to degrade the modulator so that needs to be kept in mind. My primary sink cabinet base includes garbage disposal and DWV plumbing, stand pipe for dishwasher hose, hot/cold feed for main faucet and to moderating valve for dishwasher (gets mix of hot and cold). Also there is the touch faucet control box, the fiber-optic garbage disposal control box, and quad electrical outlet. RO connection to both hot and cold sides of a pull-down faucet are present. All of the plumbing is mounted on stand-offs on the back or side walls of the cabinet base. kas